Monday, May 30, 2016

More Bumfuzzle than Pardey

Ahhhhh, remember the Dodge minivan?  "Crap, Mom.  There's not even any room for me back here!"

The latest Bumfuzzle blog post, Comfortable:
http://www.bumfuzzle.com/2016/05/27/comfortable/

We've always been more Bumfuzzle than Pardey.  This new post is particularly timely.  When we moved from our house to the boat, it filled every inch of a Dodge minivan.  As we prepare to head back to the States and buy an RV for hurricane season, the reality of how simplified our life has become is apparent.  I can pack in a backpack.  Granted, the RV will be more "summer cabin" than "home".  Technically, the cat's list is almost as long as mine:  food, anti-anxiety medicine, some litter & pee-pads until we can buy her a second Breeze litter pan, treats, her book of health certificates, her favorite towel... (I tried to buy her a separate seat, mostly so she could have her own carry-on.  She moved to the boat with her own backpack full of food & toys!).  For us:  iPads, Kindles, underwear & a few changes of clothes (actually, we now buy our underwear at WalMart and hopefully there is still a bin of clothes in storage in STL).  I may pack an extra duffle with:  the expensive electric tea pot we only use at the dock because it turned out to be too high an electrical draw.  Maybe the Nutribullet, since it's small & too expensive for a duplicate.  iPod and Iridium GO!, all wrapped in a small blanket that isn't getting used in the Caribbean.  Mostly, so we have a spare duffle that can be used to haul boat parts back!  (Captain approved!)

Oh, and a restaurant with air conditioning?  What's that?!


Sunday, May 29, 2016

Nevis of the St. Kitts & Nevis


Beautiful St Kitts
Let's back track a little:
While sitting at the Old Gin House in Statia, The Captain first mentioned going home to meet the new grandbaby and new daughter-in-law.  Hmm.  I start doing mental calculations of airline/hotel/rental car on top of the bottom paint/recovering interior cushions needed for the boat vs the cost of hauling out instead of living in the marina.  "We'll buy an RV."  Huh?  This solves the hotel, rental car, and bumming off of family and friends while going to Doctor appointments and cleaning out the storage unit.  We can stay awhile to make it worth the expense.  And of course the cat can go with us.  It can be our Plan B.  Our little summer cabin in the States during hurricane season.  I begin scouring RV blogs about campgrounds, RV parks, and "boondocking" while The Captain researches RVs.  The plan hatches to fly into Miami (which would have been our layover on the way to STL anyway), rent a car and drive to Green Cove Springs to establish FL residency (my Driver's License is expiring soon) and hopefully find an RV on the way.  Brilliant.

And a few more pictures from Statia:


Many old structures in the Caribbean where built from the ballast stones of cargo ships from Europe.  These look like ballast stones, maybe?

A old structure built around a really old tree?!

"Upper" town Statia from the Fort

More fort

View of the bay from the Fort (where in the world is My Captain, Oh Captain?)

Glad we didn't pick up THAT mooring ball!

Departing Statia for St Kitts.  Before the shit hit the fan...
OK, Statia to Nevis:
We depart our mooring for forecast winds out of the east at 10-15 kts.  We start out motoring for the first 30 minutes, dodging the dive moorings on this end of the island before unfurling the genoa.  However, as we clear the island, the venturi effect between Statia and Nevis becomes apparent.  The wind is 20 kts and we are bucking 6 ft waves for the next 7 miles.  We have St. Kitts & Nevis in sight and by 12:15 pm, we are in the lee with smoother water but the winds are still a squirrely and 20 kts gusting 28.  After observing other sailboats headed northbound, The Captain furls the genoa and motors closer towards shore but the winds are still all over the place.  We consider stopping in St Kitts instead of pounding on to our intended anchorage in Nevis, but that would involve stopping in Basseterre, the cruise ship port, to clear customs, so we carry on.

Southern end of Statia's limestone face
Our mooring ball in Charlestown, Nevis.  Nevis peak, 3200 ft.
As we near Charlestown, I take the helm and head towards mooring field on the town side.  As we get closer, we hear "Odin, Odin.  Kelly Nicole" on the radio.  They inform us the ball in front of them is a park mooring.  Someone JUST left.  As soon as we're tied up, we hop on the internet and find a picture of Odin is already posted to Facebook.  Apparently, Kelly Nicole is at the local drinking establishment, and had called us on their handheld.  Confused!

Sunset over Kelly Nicole in calm waters.  Finally.
We catch them on their way back and hilarity ensues.  Yes, The Captain gave Paul his last cold Guiness.  I gave Deb some secret chocolate from the fridge--"Seriously, where does that keep coming from?"

Stats:  Total time 5:54, Avg speed 5.1 kts, total mileage 30.3.  Motor sail genoa & 1 engine.

Nevis to Montserrat Guadeloupe:
We had planned on leaving the next morning for Montserrat, but after reading the latest Chris Parker forecast (the weather window has been shoved back again!) we decided to do an overnight to Guadeloupe.  I'm not happy.  NO MORE OVERNIGHTS!  And I wanted to see Montserrat, so begrudgingly we head out 5:30 pm (hoping to be clear of the island by dark to avoid all the fish traps), waving to Kelly Nicole who isn't leaving for another half an hour.  I hand over the helm and head below, trying to grab a little internet before we leave range and to take a nap.  No go.  "How is it down there?"  Terrible.  "Do you want to go back?"  No, keeping going.  Roll over.  Finally, just before sunset I pop out to see where the waves are coming from that are causing this terrible ride.  We've cleared the island and Montserrat is visible up ahead.  "The waves are coming from everywhere.  I'm seriously thinking of going back."  He's right.  It will be 18 hours of this.  Sometimes we're down to 3 kts which will be more like 20 hours.  Our bail-out is Montserrat which would be a DEEP unfamiliar anchorage after dark.  We won't be getting any sleep.  The winds are supposed to kick up tomorrow and Nevis is a nice protected mooring field.  Yep, let's go back.  The Captain whips us around as I grab a hold of something and all of a sudden it's calm.  Quiet.  I look over and we're doing 6 kts!  Wow.  Sailing downwind instead of into the wind.  "We should be doing this!"  The Captain hands over the mike to relay to Kelly Nicole our intentions.  They inform us they've already taken a couple waves over the bow and aren't having fun either but are going to keep going.  We wish them the best, and before we know it, their AIS does a 180.  The beat us back to the mooring field, and have a spotlight on our mooring for us when we arrive.  The winds are calmer and we have time to watch a little TV before our normal bedtime.  A calm anchorage.  Bliss.

The Captain heads into customs the next day and they tear up our departure, and charge us $21 for another week on the mooring.  (We'll end up being here 9 more days.)

At some point the Captain lobs out the idea of heading back to Puerto Rico to haul out (which came to him when we turned around to head back).  Interesting.  I pull out our insurance policy to confirm the fine print says we can be in the box from July 15th to November 1st, but our deductible is increased.  He begins to research various haul outs between Nevis and Puerto Rico, including one in St Kitts ($288/month but the cost of the airline tickets would negate the savings).  We decide to let fate help us make the decision so we send emails to our top three haul outs and then another to our insurance company to see what would happen if we amended our hurricane plan.

Our favorite outdoor breakfast spot

The best part of our life is sharing a dinghy dock with the local fisherman

We were lazy on Saturday.  Everything was closed on Sunday, so on Monday we head into town to find the laundromat.  A local fisherman on the dock informs us it's a holiday and everything is closed.  We head out for a walk anyway.  On the way back, a local woman stops to chat.  She recommends walking out to the "bubbly pool", stopping at the grocery on the way.  The grocery is open?!  Well, yeah.  Grocery store!  (Neither local can tell us what holiday it is.  "Bank holiday."  I'm later told it was Whit Monday, like Whit Sunday?  Confused.)

We make a few trips into town and it's is growing on us.  The Cafe is our regular stop then on to the grocery.  The locals are friendly, even yelling "Hello!  Hello!  Welcome to Nevis!" while driving down the road, a little unnerving at first.  "Huh?"  "I think they were talking to us."

We hear from Puerto del Rey, our first choice, confirming an opening.  I start filling out reams of paperwork.  Our insurance broker asks for an amended hurricane plan (more forms), which a couple days later, results in a blessing from our insurance carrier.  Just in time.  We'll be headed NORTH back to Statia in tomorrow's weather window!

The people of the Caribbean are very colorful, but Nevis is voted best dressed and a trip to the local department store reveals the men's VanHeusen selection...see?  I told you!

Moorahme arrives from St. Kitt's White House anchorage.  They do a slow pass, hollering over plans to get together and then head down to the Pinner's Beach mooring field.  They arrive in their dinghy a short time later, handing over a gift of a bottle of rum, then we follow them into town so they can visit customs.  A few beverages are had at Da Beer, including a chicken curry roti that Mr. Moorahme deems AMAZING!  We head on to Wilma's for lunch.  Wilma used to be a Chef at the Plantation on the island and then opened this elegant restaurant in downtown Nevis, serving local Caribbean dishes.  As cruisers you can clean us up but you can't quite take us out.  There was only one other table of guests, some refined well-dressed locals who were clearly amused by our conversation.  They may or may not have overheard the following:
"I haven't been to a restaurant with walls in a long time."  
"It feels a little confining, like wearing tennis shoes instead of flip flops."
"I miss the chickens and lizards."

Seriously, the food was excellent.  Mrs. Moorahme declared it the best chicken soup she'd ever had, including her own.  There were no prices on the menu but it ended up $33 for two people!  What?!  No pictures of the food?  Yeah, I know.  Too much chit chat.

and beautiful Nevis sunsets





Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Tracking Hurricanes

Hurricane season is upon us in the Caribbean.  With internet access anywhere from good to non-existent, we need a reliable source of info about possible activity.  I've received our first Atlantic Tropical Weather Outlook email, so I'll share what I have set up, then I'll update as the season progresses.

This is based on an article from The Boat Galley written in 2006, titled Tropical-Storm-Tracking-with-Sailmail-Revised-2-06.  I've tweaked it with updated info and to include references to our Iridum GO! (see blog, "Setting up my Iridium GO!")  The goal it to use Saildocs to receive text forecasts on our Iridium email (and regular email when available).  Secondly, research and bookmark links for low-bandwidth graphic forecasts for the Opera Mini browser (see blog "Slow internet and/or using less data") when closer tracking is required.

We'll start simple.  On Twitter, follow @NHC_Atlantic:  on the Iridium GO!, text to 40404: follow @NHC_Atlantic

Facebook also has several good pages including : NOAA NWS National Hurricane Center, Mike's Weather Page, Marv's Weather Service, and Crown Weather Service

Now it's time to go to saildocs.com and get familiar with their service.  The following are the send/sub requests you might need for hurricane season.

TEXT FORECASTS, Saildocs, (Atlantic):  
If you want to check my work, for current Saildocs filenames send email to query@saildocs.com:

  • send nws-gmex
I recommend the Offshore Forecast throughout the season (text):


but if you’re sitting for hurricane season, maybe:

  • Synopsis only (Carib):  send/sub AMZ001
  • Windward/Trinidad only (no synopsis!): send/sub AMZ035
The following 11 subscriptions are for tracking a tropical storm.  After the initial subscription, you only get an email when there is a change:

1.  Atlantic/Carib Tropical Wx Outlook
  • sub atl.outlook interval=1 days=365  
2.  Atlantic/Carib Discussion (gen comments/prediction confidence).  NHC monitors multiple systems so repeat for 2, 3, 4, & 5.
  • sub atl.disc1 interval=1 days=365
  • sub atl.disc2 interval=1 days=365
  • sub atl.disc3 interval=1 days=365
  • sub atl.disc4 interval=1 days=365
  • sub atl.disc5 interval=1 days=365
3.  Tropical Depression Forecast/Advisory (detailed).  NHC monitors multiple systems so repeat for 2, 3, 4, & 5.

  • sub atl.tech_advis1 interval=1 days=365 
  • sub atl.tech_advis2 interval=1 days=365 
  • sub atl.tech_advis3 interval=1 days=365 
  • sub atl.tech_advis4 interval=1 days=365 
  • sub atl.tech_advis5 interval=1 days=365

(Check at 1 hour intervals for updates:  interval=1)(Specify subscription period: days=365)
You can also get National Hurricane Center's High Seas Forecast (text):

  • send/sub FZNT02.KNHC

I recommend subscribing to the text forecasts above.  However, the following are larger graphic forecasts, so experiment then have this list standing by for when things require closer observation:

Bookmark NHC Marine Forecasts in Opera browser:  http://www.nhc.noaa.gov/marine/

Here are the 5 primary graphics from the National Hurricane Center:
GRAPHICS, Saildocs, (Atlantic).  Be aware of file size vs your data plan

  • 1.  NHC Sea State Analysis (graphic, current):  send PJEA11.TIF
Subscribe 0000Z (graphic): sub PJEA88.TIF
Subscribe 1200Z (graphic): sub PJEA90TIF

  • 2.  NHC Tropical Surface Forecast (graphic, E half, 24, current): send PYEE10.TIF
24 HR 0000Z: sub PYEE79.TIF
24 HR 1200Z: sub PYEE80.TIF
Get 48 (graphic, E half, current): send PYEI10.TIF
48 HR 0000Z: sub PYEI81.TIF
48 HR 1200Z: sub PYEI82.TIF
Get 72 (graphic, E half, current): send PYEK10.TIF
72 HR 0000Z: sub PYEK83.TIF
72 HR 1200Z: sub PYEK84.TIF

  • 3.  NHC Wind/Wave forecast (graphic, current, 24): send PWEE11.TIF
0000Z: sub PWEE89.TIF
1200Z: sub PWEE91.TIF
Get 36 HR, 1200Z:  send/sub PWED98.TIF
Get 48 (graphic, current): sub PWEI11.TIF
0000Z:  sub PWEI88.TIF
1200Z:  sub PWEI89.TIF
Get 72 (graphic, current): sub PJEK11.TIF
0000Z:  sub PJEK88.TIF
1200Z:  sub PJEK89.TIF


  • 4.  NHC Wave Period/Swell Direction (graphic, 48 HR, current):  send PJEI11.TIF
0000Z: sub PJEI88.TIF
1200Z: sub PJEI89.TIF
Get 72 HR (graphic, 0000Z):  send/sub PKEK88.TIF


  • 5.  NHC Tropical Cyclone Danger Area (graphic, current, after May 15/High Wind Sea):  send PWEK11.TIF  
0300Z:  sub PWEK89.TIF
0900Z:  sub PWEK90.TIF
1500Z:  sub PWEK91.TIF
2100Z:  sub PWEK88.TIF
(Mariner’s 1-2-3 Rule)

I also consider the following useful:

  • Tropical Surface Analysis (low res wide area, graphic, E half, current):  send PYEA11.TIF
(W half, current):  send PYEB11.TIF
0000Z (E): sub PYEA86.TIF (W) sub PYEB86.TIF
0600Z (E): sub PYEA87.TIF (W) sub PYEB87.TIF
1200Z (E): sub PYEA85.TIF (W) sub PYEB85.TIF
1800Z (E): sub PYEA88.TIF (W) sub PYEB88.TIF

Is that clear as mud?  I had to save to the blog, so I wouldn't risk losing all my notes!  I can't promise this is all accurate, but it's a start.  Please share any ideas (or point out any errors) below.  Good luck out there.











Saturday, May 21, 2016

Statia: eclectic, historic, European

Approach Statia
Sint Maartin to Sint Estancia/Statia:  The Captain stopped in St Maartin's customs & immigration office yesterday to confirm what time they open, so we can clear out.  When he arrives at 7:00 am the next morning, he's told that he also needs to see the harbor master, who doesn't arrive until 8:00 am.  Grrrr......Finally, after 13 days, we haul up a very "set" anchor.  As we motor out, we're greeted with very confused seas.  It's another washing machine morning.  We usually prefer to let the seas lay down for a day after a day of 15-20 like yesterday, but it's a short weather window (24 hours really).  As usual, we depart earlier than we should--the winds aren't supposed to shift around by 10:00 am.  We just.couldn't.wait.  

We try the genoa for 30 min, but it puts us farther off course than we like.  Then the winds die down to 8 kts--on the nose!  A perfect reach for St. Barts, if we had planned on going that way.

There are a few build ups but no squalls and by 2:00 pm the wind has shifted again and the genoa is unfurled. The waves calm down into normal ocean swell instead of washing machine. 

We round the corner of Statia and are greeted by several huge oil tankers anchored just offshore.  Apparently, this is a large trans-shipment port with a big oil storage depot.  Trans-shipment is defined as:  Transfer of a shipment from one carrier, or more commonly, from one vessel to another whereas in transit. Transshipments are usually made (1) where there is no direct air, land, or sea link between the consignor's and consignee's countries, (2) where the intended port of entry is blocked, or (3) to hide the identity of the port or country of origin. Because transshipment exposes the shipment to a higher probability of damage or loss, some purchase orders or letters of credit specifically prohibit it. 

Hmmmm.  As far back as the 1700's, Statia was the trade capital of the Indie's and one of the world's busiest harbours with up to 300 ships at anchor.  Apparently the Dutch neutrality is still at work.

We grab a mooring ball and immediately set up a swell bridle.  (We'll never figure out why this mooring field on the west side of the island has a roll with an east wind and swell).

Stats:  Total time 7:16, avg speed 4.9 kts, total mileage 35.8 nm.  Motor-sailed 1:00 hr.

On a mooring just off town.  The volcanic Quill, 1800 ft

We're up early.  The Captain runs over to pick up Kelly Nicole's Captain and they ride into customs together.  (They are bailing from rolly, rolly puke.  We decide to stay).
Customs $15.  Mooring $10/night or $30 for the week.  $10/person park fee to hike volcano. 

Kelly Nicole departing for St Kitts

We head in to hike Quill.  I though it was a 90 minute hike, so we time it to be back in town for lunch.  It turns out to be 40 min to the trail head, then 90 to the look out (another 20 of moderate hiking takes you to one rim, the other requires a guide).   Whew.  These sailors are out of shape.  At least downhill is easier, cardio wise.

Headed towards the trailhead

Not lost yet, but I did have to keep an eye out for trail markers!

Overlook from end of "Quill" trail


Our entertainment--crabs.  Watch your step

An unexpected twist is crab watching.  It seems NUMEROUS of these little fellows lose their balance and take a tumble down the hill.  They land in the middle of the trail, pop out, see us, and pop back in.  This turned out to be our biggest source of amusement--the biggest crab, the smallest crab, the fastest crab, the prettiest shell, the biggest crab in the smallest shell, and on, and on, and on.  (Note to self.  I need a macro lens).

The fascinating architecture of Statia.  Reminds me of a Pennsylvania Dutch farmhouse?

A typical colorful, Caribbean home

We arrive back in town and stop at the first restaurant we see open for lunch.  This was a mistake.  First of all, we're parched despite 2-32 oz bottles of sports drink and we can't seem to order a drink.  I head over to the bar where our waitress is ringing up a to-go order begging for a Presidente and ginger beer, and she shoos me back to our table (no, really.  Hand gesture and all).  She finally appears to take our order, and after an hour, I start to get antsy.  Someone has come in, eaten and left (clearly a local with a standing order), otherwise we are the only people in the restaurant.  Several people have picked up to-go orders (clearly wise to the fact to call it in EARLY!).  I'm starting to get crabby.  Finally, our food appears with a "sorry" and a quick retreat.  Um, more drinks?!  Nope.  She's gone.  (The food was excellent--curry chicken and chicken kabobs). After two hours, we make our escape.  We make another stop at the Old Gin House, to get some wifi and dessert.  

Lots of really OLD brickwork throughout town maintained by the historical society

More eclectic architecture.  A gingerbread house?

The Captain wandering through the brick streets 

I sit out in the cockpit in the morning with my coffee and I can hear the kids crying on shore (not that, wild goats!).  We head in to explore some more.  I lured The Captain in with the promise of ice cream, but they're closed, so instead we hike up the Old Slave Road to the fort (not a fair trade off, I acknowledge that).  There's a beautiful view of the bay and our boat along with the old downtown wall that is now underwater.  We head back down to "old" town and pop in a different waterfront restaurant for refreshments, but the two people sitting at the bar don't have drinks and the bartender bolts when we walk in.  We're getting used to the laid-back style of dining in the Caribbean, but customer service isn't a strong point of this little town.  You have to bring us food & drink in exchange for money.  Back to the Old Gin House.

Dutch-style farm door?  Old, old brick wall 

More OLD brickwork

View of the mooring field from the fort

The Captain taking the Old Slave Road from "upper new" town back down to "old beach" town

The Old Gin House has a (volcanic) black sand beach complete with a hammock overlook Odin


This ancient dock was my muse.  Still trying to get the perfect photo

Departing, we'll pass several dive moorings and get a look back at the massive limestone "White Wall" on the south end of the island.  There is supposed to be excellent scuba diving in this area (with guides only).

Saturday, May 14, 2016

Swell Bridle on a catamaran {gasp!}


Our first swell bridle in Rum Cay, Bahamas

Here's a dirty little secret.  I've mentioned it before and I'll mention it again.  We use a swell bridle on our catamaran.  I know, I know.  We aren't supposed to roll!  Our glasses of Bordeaux (in actual glass) shouldn't tip over!  At anchor and on a mooring, the boat should face into the wind.  However, if the waves are different from the wind, then we rock side to side.  "Where's the Dramamine?"  There's nothing worse than being seasick at anchor.  And of course, the different sound (waves slapping the side of the hulls) keeps us awake--if you can sleep thinking about what this is doing to your anchor.

We've used it in Turks and Caicos, on the mooring ball in Statia (WHAT?!) and used it most of the stay in Simpson Bay, Sint Maarten.  In fact the crew of the Leopard anchored behind us did a slow pass each day, trying to figure out why were were sideways to them.  The crew of a fellow PDQ 36 Minuet came straight over after putting out a stern anchor, and said, "What the heck?"  

If you google it, you will find lots of sailing blogs, usually referring back to Bruce Van Sant and Rum Cay, Bahamas (where we first used it).  The fact is, as you travel down the Caribbean, the anchorages are less protected and become more exposed to ocean swell.  Here's what Bruce says:

Passage's South, p 133

The Gentleman's Guide to Passages South, The Thornless Path to Windward by Bruce Van Sant, pg 133, "Swell Bridle.  Rum Cay lets you demonstrate a swell bridle to those fortunate sailors who never needed one in their home waters. From Georgetown to Luperon, and at odd points south, you shall anchor in open harbors where swell can sweep around the points.  If roll annoys you, don't dash out into a full gale to avoid it, but fetch a boat's length of line and tie a rolling hitch to your rode at the bow.  Cleat off the other end to your stern, then let out scope until you face the swell.  Now you shall pitch a bit instead of rolling.  You may also need some vernier adjustment to the stern."


A comfortable angle, most of the time

We can use our current bridle set up one of two ways.  According to Beth Leonard's, The Voyaging Handbook, "...one side of the bridle can be shortened to bring the boat into a more comfortable alignment with the waves".  In more extreme conditions (ie. monohull friends left on overnight sail to get out of rolly, rolly, puke, puke), we leave one side of the bridle on the bow cleat and walk the other side of the bridle back to a stern cleat (or rolling hitch back to an aft winch).  We personally find 45 to the wind and waves the most comfortable.  

However, this may reduce the breeze coming in the hatches, the rigging may vibrate (or "hum"), and it will confuse the heck out of other boaters as they arrive in the anchorage!

Wednesday, May 11, 2016

Cheese, ham, Bordeaux, Croissants...oh my!

You won't meet a cruiser who won't describe their visit to Sint Maarten with one of those words.  Yep, we love to eat.  We love to cook and dine out as the budget permits.  Sint Maarten is the place for that!  We anchor on the Dutch side of the island, but the French side is famous for their restaurants and it's only a short dinghy ride through the lagoon!  (In fact, I start our FaceBook page, Odin Eats while anchored here)



Passing by Nevis, Sir Richard Branson's island
Virgin Gorda, BVI to Simpson Bay, Sint Maarten:
The Captain takes the first shift.  We wave at Richard Branson's Necker Island (there's an anchorage with a sand bar & fake palm trees just off his island for photo ops?  Apparently you can also tour the house.  Dang!  I would have done that!).  It's a light chop just offshore with 3-4 ft waves, an 8 kt wind off our beam and 0.5 kts of helping current.  The genoa was unfurled and engines reduced to make sure we arrive after sunrise.  Ting, Diet Coke, Pringles & cookies are hauled out.  The Captain sets up his trolling line and swears he saw a shark fin (flying fish and birds in the area).  I'm awake!  As we reach deeper water, the ride is more comfortable with just a small 1-2 ft ocean swell.

My shift takes us to sunset.  It was an overcast day with decreased visibility, unusual in the Caribbean.  One 144 ft megayacht passes us and I see sails on the horizon.  Kelly Nicole left at 4:00 pm so they should be 15 miles behind us.  We're not alone.  15 boats will pass us going N and S instead of crossing in front of us.

The wind slowly dies to 5 kts and by 7:30 pm genoa is furled.  It's a beautiful 3/4 orange moon rise but it disappears behind the clouds.  For the first time, we have bioluminescence coming off the back of the hulls.  Pretty.

Twitter highlight:  (I'm reading Cemetery Dance by Preston & Child).  Reading zombie books @ night is never a good idea.  (Can zombies swim?)  DH suddenly popping head out of companionway (see above)--not cool!  (One friend assures me they can't.  Another says they can.  Now I know who my friends are!  Although, I'm sure they can.  Has anybody written that book/movie yet?  I'm gonna be RICH!)

The Captain finally falls asleep, so I stay up an extra hour.  At 4:30 am, I can make out the lights of Sint Maarten.  Kelly Nicole passes us while I sleep.


Sunrise as we arrive in Sint Maarten
We arrive by 6:30 am with Kelly Nicole on point and three more boats behind us.  We pull in to Simpson Bay and anchor close to the beach behind another PDQ 36, Minuet with a view of Princess Juliana airport (The cranking & banking award goes to Jet Blue!)  The Captain heads in to customs to clear in ($20). The island is French on the north side and Dutch on the south side. If you move the boat, you have to clear out and back in but you can dinghy or walk back and forth without any problems.

Stats: Total time 18.2 hrs, avg 4.5 kts, total mileage 81.1.  Motor-sailed genoa & 2 eng low power 7:00 hrs.  Motored 4.5 hrs

The Dutch bridge to enter the lagoon


More bridge's of the lagoon
It reminds me of the Venice I've seen in movies.  Many of the businesses face into the "lagoon" so with the lure of lunch, we hop in the dinghy, pass under the bridge and find our way to Island Water World--Disney for boaters. Like most cruisers, there are bits and pieces that we are doing without because we didn't have the parts like head sensor that quit, a rusty bilge pump that needs to be replaced and a refrigeration unit that works fine but needs to be overhauled before it quits. And cruisers can never have enough LED lights!  We pop next door to Lagoonies, the cruiser restaurant and grab some wifi. They point us on to the sim card store. (We should have also brought the laundry!). We thought we had memorized the map, but the lagoon is bigger than I pictured. You not only need to know where you're going, but where is the nearest dinghy dock (they don't mind but we usually try to at least stop for a drink). We park at Pineapple Pete's and walk across the street the UTS/UTD to get a Chippie sim card. They were very helpful and knowledgeable, especially when I yelped after a message in French popped up!  Data only--sim $16.  4G for $35.  Also works in Statia and St Kitts.  Didn't work on the French side?

Yep, moths to a flame.  Cats love The Captain

We slept like the dead after two nights of doing shifts.

Woohoo!  If you heard yelling coming from our boat this morning, it's because we finally got the iPhone with a local sim card tethered to the iPads. Woohoo!

Shrimpy's on French side.  Zoom in.  You have to tie off (with a friendly dog licking your fingers) and scramble up a ladder to retrieve your laundry!

Oh, and Happy Birthday to the (Dutch) King!  Everything on the Dutch side is closed today so we explore the French side this morning.  More derelict boats on their side of the lagoon, which is surprising, since I pictured their side would be "prettier".  (A huge ray jumped out of the water very close to us.  He almost landed in the dinghy!  I'm not sure what would have happened then, but I picture us in the water and the ray in the dinghy.  Now what?!)  The Captain was rewarded with a croissant for dinghying so far just to drop off laundry (Ash trays on the table. Another culture shock!).

Negligent in our tourist duties--here's a view of the Fort from a restaurant!

The salad's of Sint Maarten.  Le Spinnaker
Lagoonie's

We're relying on The Captain's high school french.  Yikes!

Lagoonie's Restaurant.  Good food and $1 Presidente's during Happy Hour

Our daily visit to Island Water World.  Yep, they know us by name.  I feel like I should have given Eric a goodbye hug.

I'm changing the saying of "working on boats in exotic places" to "running errands in exotic places".  More laundry (Lagoonies, by the pound, 1 bag of clothes $13), 2 marine stores, lunch at Zee Best, walk to grocery, (First Mate takes over the helm to "stay current" and to keep the Captain from turning back towards home), stop to pick up fresh French pastries for the Captain, drop trash at customs dock.

Ahhh, veggies...Market Garden (Dutch side next to Burger King) 5% off for boater's

WWS recommendation.  La Sucriere.  "Best almond croissants..."  Across the lagoon from Lagoonie's with a green awning and dinghy dock (just past the condos)
If you want to start a heated debate, or just need an excuse to explore, ask where the best pastries are.  (Not too shocking, there are several patisseries on the Dutch side also.)  You can't swing a cat without hitting a bakery around here!

Gluten for The Captain, cappuccino for me.  Gonna need cup holder's for the dinghy! 

"Did you know there was an island over there?!"
The weather was overcast most of the first week.  I woke up one morning and said, "Was there always an island over there?!"  I felt like I was on on the TV show, "Lost"!  Saba 25 miles away.  You can see it when the visibility and light is just right...


Heaven!  Carrefours, behind Palapa Marina (use their dinghy dock)
They love their ham...
This morning's outing was to Carrefoure Market. Why?  They sponsor the King of the Hill jersey at the Tour de France!  #wackytouriststops We hope for a walk and a few treats. We end up with jamon, swiss, baguette et bordeaux for The Captain. Olives au fromage et crackers with boursin cheese et unoaked chardonnay for me. Je parle peu le francais!

Part of the haul...
 More fun at Carrefour--Fondue potato chips, espresso chocolate and pate for Princess Amelia!

A view from the cockpit

Last Wed was the Dutch King's Birthday, Monday is Labor Day, Tuesday is declared a holiday at the last minute to make up for a holiday that fell on a Saturday and Thursday is also a holiday (Ascension Day).  Is anything open?  Is it a holiday on the French side?  Confusing.  Oh, and Carnival was in there somewhere.

When you wake up from your nap to find your anchorage is the beginning of a regatta...huh?

Steve and Jan
Another small world moment.  A former flying friend who had caught up with us in Vero Beach, texted last week to say they would be in Sint Maarten for vacation.   We expected to be gone by now, but weather kept us here.  Drinks at the yacht club!  Welcome to Sint Maarten, Steve and Jan!

The yacht club is right at the Dutch bridge.  This is a great spot to watch the large yachts coming and going to the marinas.  An interesting note in Sint Maarten, the yachts are suddenly HUGE!  The sailing catamarans average 60 ft, there were NUMEROUS sailing yachts in the 150ish ft range and we saw at least one 250 motor yacht.

We also run into former dock mates from Brunswick, GA.  "What took you guys so long?!"  They come straight to Sint Maarten and this year, have decided to stay through hurricane season.  Interesting.  We'll be back!