Pilgrimage to Oriental

Ocracoke Anchorage

Hey Jacek, does this look right?

Ocracoke Day 2:  We reconnaissance the dinghy dock and the Captain drops me off for my morning walk.  When he returns, he's too hungry to go back for the bikes, so we walk to lunch at Ocracoke Bar and Grill (spiced local NC shrimp, over veggies and rice with cheese and a long island iced tea). It's a fun town. A quirky, hippie town with a dry sense of humor. ("No outside drinks.  Don't make it weird."  "No ice cream."  "Don't even think about docking here.")  Back to the boat for naps and a kayak.

Princess Amelia

Amelia has decided that she likes her water with a wedge of lemon in an insulated tumbler on the table. Thanks for asking. Great

Local clams from Jolly Rogers

We dinghy over to Jolly Rogers for drinks (& our first plate of fresh clams.  YUM!) then walk to the Seafood Market for some fresh mahi to throw on the grill (also learn figs grow well on the island and fig cake is a specialty here.  YUM!).  After dinner, the coast guard announced a weather warning, possible gusts to 60, so we (and everybody in the anchorage) headed out to bring all loose items in--kayak on deck, dinghy into davits and triple check anchor bridle. We sat in the cockpit and watched the storm roll in, with a good lightning show and light rain. However, just when we thought it was over the winds picked up to 25 gusting to 35. By now, the Captain felt pretty good about our anchor so we slept like babies, snuggled under blankets with the hatches open. 

Our dinghy tied up next to the big boys.  All boat & dinghy departures and arrivals are based on the ferry schedule.

Day 3:  A lazy morning turned into baking almond flour banana nut muffins, mixing up some bloody mary mix for later (I swear), a dinghy ride in to town.  The Captain went for a bike ride.  A local walked me over to a friends coffee shop after I balked at buying espresso from the ice cream shop. I visited the book store across the street and bought a book on Blackbeard, who according to legend, was killed just outside the Ocracoke Inlet. As I headed back to the dinghy, I run into my husband has found the owner of the PDQ sail boat at the National Park Service dock and we stop to chat for an hour or so. 

We learned a new trick from watching the 65 ft yacht next to us. Tie the dinghy painter foward on the boat and let it trail back to the steps. That's TONS easier. More boats from Oriental come in, but most head to the dock. I make mediterranean pasta salad for dinner, and we run over to the Community Market to grab dessert (lot's of organic and gluten-free options without extra mark up.  I hid the Walker's gf shortbread cookies)

Dang.  That's easier.  Why didn't we think of that?

Amelia took a nap  Hey, get out of there!

Maybe she's taking so many naps because she's getting into the RUM!

There's a live band at two of the waterfront bars so we sit on deck and listen to the dueling bands. When we go in for the night, we can still hear the band from Jolly Rogers from the comfort of our settee. 

There it is!  The Atlantic Ocean!

Day 4:  We load up both bikes in the dinghy and head in (another first). We run into our PDQ friend and Misto (Nautitech 44) and stop for another chat before biking out to the beach. After you pass Howard's restaurant, all the traffic goes away and the bike path starts. We cruise by the airport and turn into the beach parking. For a holiday weekend, it isn't too crowded and the Captain contemplated a dune buggy with a beach permit could quickly get you you're own stretch of beach here. We take a short walk, dip our toes in the Atlantic, pick up a few shells and decide to try to get closer to the inlet. Back on the bikes and we find a vehicle access road not on the tourist map.  It's at least another mile to the beach, and the bicycles don't quite make it all the way, so we leave them by the side of the road and walk it.  We see the spit, so we head down the beach.  The sand is soft, but walking up to the water isn't an option since everyone is fishing (fishing rod racks on front and back bumpers).  We both finally stop when we realize we aren't making much progress, and climb a dune.  THERE IT IS!  The inlet.  Way cool.   We take out our water bottle and Larabars and have a little picnic on the sand dune before heading back.  Of course, the wind shifted and picked up so we are riding into a head wind, so we bail for cold drinks and lunch as soon as we reach Howards, then a quick stop at the market, the hardware store (our new fav hobby, browsing the hardware store) and liquor store ("just in case...")  We received an invite to the Neuse River Sailing Association social at 3:00 pm, so we have just enough time for naps.  We have another nice evening breeze, that keeps the bugs away and makes sleeping very comfortable.

Abandoning the bicycles to walk up to the inlet

Amelia took a nap.

Ocracoke to Oriental:  We had originally planned on leaving on Sunday because of weather.  However, it was tempting to stay until Monday and sail back with the big group from Oriental, including the other PDQ.  We have a few rules and they are 1)  we don't have a plan.  We don't need to be anywhere 2)  Never change your plans for other people.  SO, we decided to go with the favorable weather forecast of 5-10 kt easterly winds and pull up anchor, just in time to drop behind the 7:30 ferry departure, along with two other sailboats.  It's a little rough coming out of the Ocracoke channel, but calms down as we get farther out and get both sails up.  I spot two dolphins in the distance an ethereal, spiritual, commune with nature that always brings a tear to my eye (yes, I'm a girl!)  "Crab pot.  Nope, that's a bird--nope, that's a crab pot!"  However, we end up motor sailing with less than 10 kts of wind with a few jibes.  As we turn up the Neuse River, we see more sailboats with their sails up than we've seen in the last 2 months!  They're everywhere!  How exciting.  As we near the channel for our marina we hear someone aground and calling Sea Tow.  We were given explicit instructions--rub the paint off the red markers.  Shoals on the green side.  Got it.  We dock with moderate success--only one try, stern to and I jump off the back step onto the dock.  Our fellow transient comes over to grab a line.  The Captain can't quite walk to bow over to the dock without the wind catching it and blowing it back out, but he successfully throws me a line and we're secured.  As we relax in the cockpit with cocktails, we watch a small dinghy run around right next to us.  Departing could be interesting.  

Amelia took a nap.

Much like our visit to Annapolis, stopping in Oriental is a "must" for sailors.  It's the sailing capital of North Carolina and the sailboats outnumber the people (4000 boats to 800 people?!) 

Stats:  Total time 8:03, Total mileage 42.4 nm, average speed 5.3 kts (motor sailed with 5-10 kt winds)

"Our most ambitious sail yet..."

(Is it a marina or a gas station?)

Edenton to Alligator River Marina:  We're off the dock by 7:00 am and the First Mate has the sails up as soon as we clear the channel marker.  We have a direct tailwind so we jibe back and forth across the Albemarle Sound for most of it's length.  I managed to pop down below to make a bagged chop salad for lunch, which just made us sleepy.  I was getting pretty good at managing the sails by the time the wind dies--about 1:30 pm, just as the day heated up.  A few thunderstorms formed behind and ahead of us, but they all missed us.  We motor into Alligator River Marina, at the base of a bridge and is also a gas station on the highway.  Every town and marina has it's own character, and like the rest, this one fascinates us.  It turns out they DO have the best burgers and cold beer after a hot day.  

Stats:  Total 8:40 hours, total mileage 44.6 nm, avg speed 5.1 kts (sailed length of Albemarle)

The ICW guidebook says the Alligator River is a "22.4 mile area with extremely limited shore access in deep muck and cypress swamp...Insects and snakes (some poisonous) abound and help is not readily available."  Sounds like fun.

(Alligator River Bridge--right after we hit a crab pot)

Alligator River Marina (ICW) to Belhaven, NC:  (Our first back to back day of moving) As we pulled out of the marina at the base of the bridge, we rejoin the ICW southbound.  We maneuvered around a few crab pots, and called the bridge tender on the radio.  I point out that the vehicle traffic has stopped, which is a sign the bridge is about to open.  The Captain looks up and begins to align us for the opening.  As the bridge begins to swing for us, we hit a crab pot.  Captain shut that engine down and turned the boat over to me, so he could pull the engine up and take a look.  Crab pot confirmed.  We drug it through the bridge and cut it loose on the other side.   Tempted to keep the buoy as a souvenir, we take a pic and throw it back in.  It's a criminal offense to have a buoy that isn't registered to you (and no we didn't get to see if there was any crab in the trap!  I'm still waiting for my big plate of Crab Imperial in exchange for negotiating crab pots).  

(Cutting off the crab pot and checking for damage through the port engine access)

(The beautiful Alligator River)

I was surprised the Alligator River is a wide, beautiful river.  The fun part of "going the wrong way," is the parade of boats we pass.  A beautiful ketch, a nordic trawler, a Lagoon power cat.  The bad part is the constant parade of boats.  Most of the sailboats are friendly and wave.  Many of the powerboats are friendly, calling us on the radio and waving, and a few power boats wake us so hard that a few things are found on the floor.  Otherwise, the water was smooth as glass.  You could go down below and think you were still at the dock.  We left a few hatches open and a fan on for the cat and it stayed pretty comfortable down below.  We share the helm off an on throughout the day as we navigate the canal connecting the Alligator River and Pungo river.  

As we exit the canal and enter the Pungo, a few rain showers start to form around us and we get everything closed up and rain jackets on just in time.  We were hoping for the free docks in Belhaven but due to some confusion and lack of information, we end up paying $1.00/ft or $41 for the night with electricity and water (but no bathrooms, showers, laundry or wifi). We share the dock with another sailboat, crank up the A/C and make chop salad for dinner.  A local, former cruiser stops by to give us a gift bag and offer us a ride to the store. A few more thunderstorms roll through and AT&T cell phone service is nil, so we start planning for our trip to Oriental (another first, we decided to keep moving for three days in a row).

(The Belhaven Town Dock--not the free one!)

Stats:  Total 8.49 hours, 47.4 miles, average 5.4 kts (motored)

(For my sister:  3 families of geese leading us out of the marina--I counted at least 12 gosling)

Belhaven to Ocracoke:  We have a weather window to make it across the Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke Island instead of Oriental.  It will be "our most ambitious leg yet."  We realized, as we left the dock, that it is Memorial Day weekend, but wherever we go will be busy. It's a nice morning.  We're up early and leave the dock right behind the monohull for a parade of 6 boats heading back to the ICW. To our surprise, 2 of the boats turn south with us.  We unfurl the genoa and motorsail downwind for 2 hours (Captain ran the genoa line outside the lifelines, back to a pulley and up onto a winch, so we have a half-ass spinnaker set up) until we make the turn into Pamlico River/Sound.  We raise the main and take up a course of 130 that should take us all the way to Ocracoke.

(The genoa sheet run outside the life lines)

We start with a quartering tailwind, then beam reach to barely holding a close reach as the winds shift to an unforecast easterly wind. We do a few tacks off course, and finally give up--motoring the last 2 1/2 hours and negotiate the narrow entrance, complete with the biggest ferries you've ever seen!  I was informed later that a hat was lost overboard).

The anchorage is moderately crowded--but the most crowded we've done!  The anchor has a good set the first time and we swing between the two boats on either side, one of which is a 65 monohull (Mystique)--yes, that would be a "yacht."  The next morning, we start an engine to move forward so the guy behind us can raise his anchor--which is under our boat.  This is our most entertaining anchorage yet.  I can't begin to explain, but the Captain yells, down, more than once, "you got to see this."  We  have also developed a nervous tick about ferries and watching them arrive and depart becomes a new obsession.  

Stats: Total 8:50 hrs, total miles 47.2, avg speed 5.3 (motor sail 1/4, sail 1/2, motored 1/4)

(Anchored in Ocracoke)

Our first overnight guests!

Can you tell they're brothers?

Our first overnight guests are the Captains' brother and his wife.  They're sailors and lived on a houseboat in San Fransisco.  Good times always follow when we get together.  We were excited to have them as our first guests!

Trouble in a dinghy!

We're up the next morning and leisurely depart the dock by 10:00 am.  The winds are light so we motor out to the sound and up the Chowan River to an good anchoring spot just outside the Rocky Hock creek.  After a 4-person consult on the anchor, we grilled burgers.  My sister-in-law & I headed out in the dinghy first for a quick reconnaissance of the creek.  The afternoon are naps and kindles, along with a leisurely afternoon discussion in the cockpit about sail boats including Gunboats (how do you dismast one of those?) and Benetteaus (keels shouldn't fall off).  Then I headed out in the kayak for a deeper expedition up the shallow creek, only to find a small marina with a few power boats. BIL headed out in the dinghy next, and headed all the way into the tiny marina, tied up and went for a walk.  More naps.  Captain comes out and heads off in the dinghy, only to come back for the aux fuel tank and say, "Come on.  You have to go under the bridge."  Off we go.  We went at least a mile up river and only saw one house.  On the way back, I said, "Look a kayak."  That's your SIL in your kayak.  Oh, yeah.  Grilled chicken and chop salad for dinner.  Best anchor hold yet.  Minimal swing, but as usual, the wind picked up in the middle of the night.

A good day of sailing

We had a lazy morning at anchor, with coffee and smoothies and BIL heading out in the kayak.  The wind started to pick up nicely, so we hauled up anchor by 10:00 am (nice to have extra crew members) and had the sails up 15 minutes later as we turned back into the main part of the Chowan.  The brother's were quickly playing with sail configurations/trim and different tacks.  It was a beautiful day to sail with 10-15 kts of wind and max speed of 7.5 kts.  We started with a close reach, then a beam reach and finally a run.  

I love these guys!  Three way Cunningham sail trim consult!

Every day is something new.  We finally got around the a wing & wing configuration.

Heading into Edenton the boys successfully set up wing & wing that took us almost to the marina.  With two line handlers, docking was easy-peesy.  Back into town for lunch at the ice cream shop, followed by a stop at the coffee house to stock up on whole beans.  While the boys took their afternoon naps (it turns out the forward berth with a hatch open and a fan is a comfortable spot in the afternoon heat), the girls discovered the rocking chairs on the upstairs porch at the Barker House--in the shade with a breeze (they also had an amazing assortment of southern cookbooks--biscuits, shrimp & grits, corn bread and Natalie Duprie to name a few.  We always end up perusing cookbooks somewhere!).  Everyone reconvenes in the cockpit to discover there is a wedding in the park outside the marina--yep, we found another party.  The Captain closes us the boat and turns on the air, "because he wants to wash down the exterior."  Dinner is pasta with ground turkey & marinara, interrupted by the arrival of a trawler from Makey's/Plymouth.  "You have to go to Christy's for white pizza!"  THE BRIDE HAS ARRIVED, makes even the boys look up.

Beautiful downtown Edenton Marina & Lighthouse

Family departs Sunday morning.  I stepped out into the cockpit to see the Captain watching his brother scrubbing the may flies off the deck.  "What's going on out here?"  "He volunteered!"  The second our guests head down the dock, Amelia comes out to reclaim her territory!  We borrowed the marina courtesy car to go grocery shopping (but no beer, because it's before noon on Sunday--Captain will have to make a second trip), cleaning and naps.  As usual, we've found a another party on the waterfront.  It's Music by the Bay sponsored by the Barkley House--Justin Holland & Friends is playing acoustic country right across from the marina.  We sneak onto the upstairs porch of the Barkley House and watch from the shade of the rocking chairs with a breeze.  Purchased the books, History of the Dismal Swamp and Cornbread Nation.

Music by the Bay (with Odin in the top right)

After a lot of hype, we finally made it into Edenton, NC

Sunset with Odin in front of Plymouth (replica Roanoke River) lighthouse

Replica of iron-clad CSS Albemarle

Day 3 (Plymouth):  It's supposed to be 90F today, so we bolt early on the bicycles for a provisioning run, do a few chores (spinnaker out on deck for an airing out) and then head to the town museums as the heat hits.  Plymouth is a very historic town.  It was founded in 1787 as a port of entry (you could head up the Roanoke River to Virginia).  As a result, there was a large Civil War naval battle fought here, chronicled at the Port O'Plymouth museum including a scale model of the Albemarle.  At the end of the war, most of the town was burnt to the ground, but there are still some beautiful old homes here.  They do reenactments every year ("We invite the Yanks down, charge them money, whoop their butts and send them home!").  Our next stop was the God's Creation Wildlife Museum.  This is the personal collection of mounted animals of a local sportsman.  No matter how you feel about hunting, this is an impressive collection of local and African animals.  It was very educational and included a "touch" table.  Very tasteful done and worth our time.  Our last stop was the Maritime Museum across from the marina.  (Leave yourself lots of time to have Brenda walk you through.  She can tell you the history of the area better than anyone.)  Back to the boat to crank up the air conditioning, do a few loads of laundry and watch another movie.

View of the new city docks from the lighthouse

Day 3:  It's a lazy day and forecast to be cooler.  The Captain has found some trim to paint.  Brenda shows up at the dock at 10:00 am and invites us up into the lighthouse (on her day off) for more history lessons.  This is a replica of the original lighthouse that was at the mouth of the river (it burnt down shortly after being built). The second, original lighthouse (and last surviving of this style) is in Edenton.

When all else fails, the Captain can start taking bicycles apart

Leaving the Roanoke River for Albemarle Sound

Day 3:  I wake up to find the water level on the river has dropped significantly (the step off the boat to the dock is no longer a jump).  Great news since we have to go back under (preferably) the 50 ft bridge again.  We're up early and off by 7:00 am.  The winds were forecast to be out of the north (and we can't sail directly into the wind) so the plan was to motor the 14 miles across the Albemarle Sound to Edenton.  However, after an hour motor off of the Roanoke River, we discover the winds are more of a quartering wind so we unfurl the genoa for about an hour (and watch the winds slowly shift back to the north--and our track slowly wanders off our intended course).  We finally give up and furl the genoa and motor into Edenton.

Stats:  Total time 2:42, total distance 14.1 NM, average speed 5.2 kts.

Docked in front of the "other" Roanoke River Lighthouse in Edenton free Town Marina

We knew there was a break water at the marina, however, we are caught by surprise by the narrow entrance.  We were able to dock easily on the only T-head and were quickly met by Carmella with a package (Amelia the cat's medication) and given another run-down of the history of the lighthouse ("Are we lost?  We were docked in front of the same lighthouse in Plymouth?")  We checked in, walked down Main Street, and did some damage at the True Value before heading back for naps.  (Brenda called to make sure we made it across the Sound OK.  God bless her, I wish I had a given her a hug goodbye!)  Our first guests arrive (the Captain's brother & his wife) around 4:30 pm and we went for another walk through town before dinner at Waterman's (every single person who asked where we were headed next said we had to eat at Waterman's.)

We've been hearing about Edenton since the Dismal Swamp Visitor's Center.  Every time we told someone we were going to spend some time in NC and the Albemarle, they told us you HAVE to go to EDENTON.  Did it live up to the hype?  Yes.  A beautiful, quaint, small town on the water.  Several excellent restaurants, a coffee house and anything else you need is here.  Highly recommend. If you make one stop in the Albemarle, it should be here!

Where is the world is that?

We've been trying to mark all of our stops on Google Maps.  It sounds like it's working, so here's a link (it's also over on the left hand side of the blog under "Our fav links").  If you zoom all the way in on an "anchor" you can even see the marinas.  We've started using Google Maps as a part of our route planning (and to get a tentative idea of the marina location and layout).

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=zLIYOgFK_xh0.kRkTBlZlCMhU

Columbia, NC to Plymouth

Day 3 Columbia:  My plan for today was bicycle to Family Dollar or Dollar General to buy an ice cube tray (because, it turns out, that even in 80F our freezer still freezes things!  Exciting!)  Hubby decided to join me and we end up spending $32!  We have family members coming to visit, so we splurged on $20 sheets.  A few citronella candles and some rug remnants made him realize--HE MUST ALWAYS TAKE A BACKPACK (I have mine)!  Sun tea is put out on deck and blankets are put out in the sun.  My Captain, Oh Captain makes an excellent chop salad with blue cheese dressing for lunch, then I'm off to the winery for some air conditioning and free wifi.  An afternoon rain shower had me scrambling to bring everything inside.  The air conditioning wass turned on & a Harry Potter movie was started.

Albemarle Loop/Columbia to Plymouth:  Yes, tropical storm Ana made landfall in SC last night.  It's still a day away from us and the winds are forecast to be 15 kts with heavy rain tomorrow.  We elect to leave Columbia, since our 3 days are up--although I'm sure they would have let us stay.  The First Mate makes it on deck a little earlier to help remove the sail cover, wipe down the windows and solar panels and start the checklist.  We wave goodbye to the cruising group having coffee on the dock in their pajamas and casually shove off the dock by 7:00 am (Captain likes arriving at lunch time so he's motivated to get up earlier now).  It was a little stuffy this morning, but there is a nice breeze on the water.

First Mate at the helm and the Captain on the sails when he announces, "we're gonna sail under the bridge."  We're gonna what?!  He lowers and starts an engine to make the First Mate feel better.  It makes sense, since we're only halfway to our destination.

Bald eagle port side before buoy 13!  Flew below the tree line down the river to his nest.

The next bridge is only 50 ft.  (We've done it before in Edgewater!)  The Captain checks the water height before we head under.  I can't watch (I'm later told, I should have watched to see if our VHF whip touched, for future reference.)  We call ahead to the the city dock & Brenda gives me some info and says she'll meet us at the dock.  We haven't beaten the rain, but she insists on meeting us.  We were warned about the current and as usual, go with plan B (the docks are 90 degrees to a river with a several dams upstream).

Columbia is our sleepiest town so far.  Downtown closes at 2:00 pm, so we eat on the boat.  I decide on a quick run to the Piggly Wiggly since we will be stuck on the boat tomorrow.

Day 2:  Tropical Storm Ana passes by.  If the winds here were 15 kts, we couldn't tell.  We are sheltered by the lighthouse and the wakes from the fishing boats don't even reach us at the dock.  Movies, reading, naps.  The Captain is convinced the rain showers are over so he bolts on the bicycle (Walgreens to check for movies, McDonalds for lunch, and grocery store for celery & a bell pepper for the Red Beans & Rice).  He comes back drenched.  "Was it worth it?"  Nope, but he brought me a snickers bar.

Plantation to Columbia, NC

Tight channel out of the Albemarle Plantation

We decide to continue the loop.  We pick Columbia as our next stop because favorable winds will allow us to sail across the Albemarle Sound for the 15 mile hop.  It's a tricky exit from our slip at the Plantation.  The wind is blowing us onto the dock and we have a piling to clear.  The Captain sets up the lines, and then First Mate (who has to pull in those lines) asks a few questions.  However, the departure is uneventful, with the help of a boat hook to fend off the pilings.  Nice.

The Captain remains at the helm and the First Mate was running the sails as we head across the Sound.  However, after putting up the main and genoa, it's a broad reach all the way across with no tacking required. We have 10-15 kts of wind and average 7 kts under sail!  After furling the sails to the enter the Scuppernong River channel, the starboard engine (yep, Lokie) refuses to start.  After starting Thor and doing a few circles, the Captain gets it running (starter solenoid going bad?) and the First Mate heads up on deck to prep lines and fenders for arrival.  The Cap anticipates a port side arrival (which means it will be starboard), when the new fender goes overboard--the Captain tied that knot!  We'd been meaning to practice man-overboard drills and there it is.

We called ahead to Columbia to let them know we were coming.  Upon arrival and a slow reconnaissance pass, we find the wind is blowing us off the dock, but I got a line around a cleat before the stern swung out.  The crew is getting braver, so the Captain pulls the boat up to the dock with the bow line and the First Mate jumps off, grabs a stern line and pulls the stern onto the dock.  Every docking is different!  The end result is a very sheltered dock with free power, water, bathrooms and showers.  When we step off, we are at the end of Main Street.  Someone immediately stops by to say hello and directs us to Sandy's for lunch (free wifi).

The boss went back down the dock for an action shot.

The grocery store is 0.8 miles away, so we unload the folding bikes and backpacks and head off--(we're out of olive oil, Luzianne tea bags & diet coke.  Not a crisis.  Worth the trip).  As moderately serious road bikers, we feel a little silly on the child-size folding bicycles ("I bet I look like a circus bear") but it makes the 0.8 in 76F weather a quick errand.  "I can strap a 12-pack of Yuengling to the rack on the back.  I'm not kidding."  We celebrate with sundowners & kindles in the cockpit and enjoy the breeze.  Dinner is homemade coleslaw, iced tea (yep, this is perfect for the boat.  Don't know why it took that long.  And I have simple syrup I use in coffee!) and grilled.  We take an evening dinghy ride under the bridge and farther up the river.

Sweet tea, ya'all

Day 2 Columbia:  The Captain pumped up dinghy and does a water line scrub.  "Being Captain is basically like being head janitor."  I do another grocery run on the bicycle.  We walk down to coffee shop in the winery, then on to the boardwalk where I get attacked by horse flies (Husband hits me on the back.  "That wasn't a fly.  I just smacked you.")  I'm out--see you back at the boat!  Lunch is a gluten-free frozen pizza (a special treat when you have to buy it, get it home while it's still frozen & cook it in our bent pizza pan because the oven is only 10" wide!)  Afternoon naps are followed by a wine tasting at the winery (The Captain purchased 3 bottles of wine--budget out the window!  These free docks are killing us.)  I go out for a kayak while Captain rides his bike.  The Captain and Amelia the cat take another nap before our evening out.  It turns out the Oyster Bar is out of oysters and we're back at the boat before the music starts (dinner was still very good with excellent service).  Nice try, honey.

WINERY!

Our attempt to get off the beaten path had landed us in another party.  The pontoon boat that gives free rides shows up along with 3 trawlers and a sailboat that are here for an 80-person Cypress Cruising Club Reunion.

Docked off the end of Main Street.

Yes, we're aware of Tropical Depression Ana off the coast.  We are off the ICW, up the Albermarle Sound, and up the Scuppernong River in a relatively sheltered dock.  We'll wait and see.  We've anchored out in 25 kts+.  The forecast is for 17 kts where we're at.

Sunset in Columbia, NC

Albemarle Loop/Columbia, NC Report

A review of our stop in Columbia, NC on the Albemarle Loop (written for the Women Who Sail forum):

We hopped from the Albemarle Plantation over the Columbia, NC.  This was a short hop across the Sound and with favoring winds, we were able to sail most of it.  We dropped the sails to enter the narrow mouth of the river but regretted it.  We could have sailed easily a little farther down river.  We called ahead to let them know we were coming, and they said "You can't miss the new docks."   According to Active Captain, the beige building was our landmark and that was correct.  They've installed several new slips with free water and shore power.  However, as a catamaran with an 18 ft beam, we chose to tie up to the remaining bulkhead (nearest the bridge).  There is no dock master here, but you can stop into the municipal office and check in.  When you step off, you are at the end of Main Street and we were immediately directed to Sandy's for lunch (free wifi, just ask for the password.  The town internet was spotty without our range extender, so I walked down to Sandy's a few evenings to update my Kindle and iPad).  There is also a hardware store, auto parts store, post office and several restaurants in town.  The Food Lion was an easy 0.8 up the road (Family General & Dollar Store are next door).  We had dinner at the Oyster Bar (open Thurs-Sun) and enjoyed a wine tasting and coffee at the winery (also free wifi, just ask for the password.  Nice upstairs to hang out).  Past the Visitor's Center, there's a boardwalk along the river.

We thought we had the place to ourselves until a pontoon boat (that gives rides on Friday) and 4 more boats showed up (Cypress Marina Cruising Reunion).  This was a nice stop.  We stayed the 3-day maximum.  We were very sheltered from winds.  There are showers and bathrooms at the dock.  (We also saw/heard rumors of mooring balls.  After a dinghy reconnaissance, one was on a tree and one was washing up on the boardwalk on the other side of the bridge.  I would assume the other two aren't being maintained.  I asked over the phone, and they didn't have any info.  We also wouldn't anchor in the river without some more local knowledge.  We saw a lot of logs just off the center of the channel).  Highly recommend.

Elizabeth City to Albemarle Plantation

The famous Elizabeth City rose bushes

Odin docked in front of the Elizabeth City park

Day 2 Elizabeth City:  We're hung around for another day.  This was supposed to be a mail stop, but we are now going to use the Albemarle Loop for that (free dock for 48-hours ).  We went to Muddy Coffee for breakfast, then walked 2 miles to the grocery store.  On the way out, we were repacking the groceries into our backpacks, when someone stopped and offered us a ride back to the marina.  We politely declined, saying "it's our exercise and we're going to stop for lunch."  The stranger said, "you should eat lunch at my restaurant!"  So we did--Monteo's was open for Sunday brunch.  The Captain had a salad, iced tea and a french dip.  I had shrimp & grits, a bloody mary and a mini creme brulee.  It was excellent.  Good thing we walked!

Monteo's Sunday brunch

I headed out for an afternoon paddle and my Captain walked to the hardware store (because we haven't seen a West Marine in over a week!).  Dinner is cold pasta salad with Country French vinaigrette, tuna, olives & peas.

Some of North Carolina's cypress knobs

On & off the boat was a little tricky.  Did I mention it was free?

Leg 9:   Elizabeth city to Albemarle Plantation marina (see separate Plantation report).  A warmer night on the boat--60F when I got up (couldn't see my breath--yeah!)  We departed at 7:30 am.  We're headed out for a few reasons:  1)  We are only allowed 48-hours on the free dock in Elizabeth City 2)  We need to do laundry  3)  The next marina is also free.  As a result, we didn't wait wait for favorable winds to sail.  As we left the Pasquotank River and entered the Albemarle Sound, we leave the Dismal Swamp route (and converge with the Virginia cut route).   We motor-sailed, then motored with less than 5 kts of wind.  It was a 35 mile hop (20 miles off the ICW) to arrive at the Albermarle Plantation (watch your depth). 

Broke free of the ICW and the main sail is UP!

The Dismal Swamp has been gorgeous.  The people are INCREDIBLY friendly.  We never saw less than 6.0 ft of water under the keel.  We saw a few logs on the side that were easily avoided.  The other boaters have been very nice (and I hate to say it, because they may take our sailor club card away, but the trawler crews have been especially nice to a couple of newbie sailors).  We would do this again.

We expected the usual "T-head" at the Plantation, but instead we're directed around to an extra-wide slip.  Wow!  What a treat.  It's our first full slip.  The harbor master is very friendly and a few other people nearby stop to grab a line.  We got a tour of the grounds on a golf cart and then arrived back at the boat for more visitors.  We finally get all settled and head for the Dockside Cafe.  It's the most reasonable wine collection I've seen in awhile, and we ended up sharing a bottle of chilled bottle of 120 Sauvignon Blanc.  Back at the boat, I confirmed we have free, strong wifi while the Captain disappeared below after a short deck cleaning (odd!)  Amelia reluctantly joined me until hubby pops out and says, "The air conditioning is working!"  SHUT UP!  It's our warmest day so far--76F.  We're just not acclimated yet (yes, just like Missouri.  It jumped from 50's to 80's overnight.  Not complaining!  Just sayin')

Stats:  Total time 6:46, 5.2 kts average, 35.5 miles

"You can't have those.  Those are for the Captain."  Um, OK.

I did several loads of laundry in their brand new washer & dryer (allowing me to packing away flannel sheets, blankets & sweatshirts and unpack t-shirts & shorts!)  We buy two more bottles of wine (another Sauvignon Blanc & a portugal Tawny Port) and go out for our second lunch in a row, exceeding our normal allowance.  We're a little giddy from all the free docks, water and electricity (afternoon espresso!)

A new breakfast recipe was inspired by the trawler, Diva Di--a scramble of onion, bell pepper, hash browns & spam (just because we're sailors).  (Normally I'd add eggs, but the Captain doesn't eat eggs and he said it didn't even need the spam.  Also a variation of a vegetable hash I keep meaning to try). For dinner, the captain also whips up his signature stir fry (with bagged vegetables & "tube" ginger but it was still wonderful!)

Captain cleans the exterior and does a few chores (apparently, regular marina visits will be required for this task that requires LOTS of water!)   For the first time, it's nicer outside so I move out into the cockpit to enjoy the breeze.  Apparently, it's the first sailboat race of the season today, so we watch the parade of golf carts to the marina and boats headed out into the bay.  My Captain tackles the water tank situation (trying to empty, change valves and refill our tanks).  The kayak was also pressed into service (even the Captain went out to explore!)

Albemarle Plantation/Albemarle Loop Report

The report I posted on the Women Who Sail forum (Facebook):

Albemarle Plantation Report (http://albemarleloop.com):  This was our first stop on the "Albemarle Loop," a new route created a month ago by a group here at the Plantation off the Yeopim River.  (OK, technically our second stop, but we were already going to Elizabeth City).  If you want to explore the sound (or just need a break from the ICW), this is a great option.  We're headed south and it was 35 miles from Elizabeth City (or 20 miles off the ICW).  It is one of 6 marinas that offer 48-hour free docks (2 marinas have fixed bridges--check your height).  This is a golfing and boating community that has opened their door to transients, especially those on the ICW.  We called ahead to let them know we were coming and were greeted very warmly by Michael, the harbor master.  They even had an extra wide slip available for our catamaran (and it was our first!)  A couple of residents also stopped to grab lines.  We received a golf cart tour of the amenities, then they left a loaner golf court at the end of the pier for us.  We had water, electricity (50-amp in our slip, but 30-amp is supposed to be available--bring your adaptor), wifi and free pump out.  Fuel is also available.  There is a Dockside Cafe just outside the marina that serves food and alcohol on Sunday & Monday (with an excellent wine collection) and a screened in porch.  There are also public bathrooms, showers & a washer/dryer available 24-hours a day in this building.  Other days you can walk/take a golf cart a short way to the Clubhouse for casual or formal dining.  They have a tennis courts, a pool, rent kayaks or canoes and can arrange a round of golf with clubs.

It's official.  We're told that we're the first loopers!  We lost track of the people that came by to say hello and to welcome us to their home marina.  Tuesday at 1:00 was the club sailboat race and it was fun to sit in the cockpit and watch everyone coming and going.  They also have an PGA event coming at the end of the month.

The only caution is to watch your depth.  We never saw less than 5 ft but it is a shallow entry (marked well with private buoys)--there are several sailboats based here.  There also isn't a lot of shopping nearby, but were told that a grocery store delivers and several people offered us rides into town.

If you aren't in a hurry, need a few days to do chores while at a dock, and like to sit back and enjoy the scenery with a good book, this is the place for you.  There are even adirondack chairs on the point overlooking the marina.

Special Report Leg 2 Dismal Swamp ICW

"Med moored" after the lock master called us back for coffee

Leg 8/Day 2 Dismal Swamp ICW:  We slept GREAT!  There is very little current or wind here so you can't even tell you're on a boat.  This was a short stop.  We're up early to catch the 8:15 am bridge before the lock opens,  for a 20 mile run to the Visitor's Center.  It turns out there is nobody in the queue for the lock, so we have coffee with the trawler crew from Tadhana, and Robert the lock master.  We learned a TON about the swamp and cruising the ICW (we even obtained an extra cruising guide--On the Water Chartguides ICW by Doyle is excellent!).  We finally got underway around 12:30 pm when some boats showed up requesting a bridge opening.  (The Captain later admitted, I need to learn to be more patient.  That was a great experience.)  There's a gentle rain as we motored along, mostly by ourselves.  The First Mate was at the helm, while the Captain sat back and enjoyed the view.

Dismal Swamp tannic acid

The water here is brownish--like coca cola.  It turns out it's tannic acid (the breakdown of decaying trees that results in clean drinking water without bacteria.  It will actually kill any growth on your hull, while staining it brown).  We saw lots of wildlife and the scenery is amazing.  We crossed the North Carolina border (We're here, NASCAR fans!)  We had planned on staying at the Feeder Ditch/Arbuckle's free dock, just before before the Visitor's Center, but while backing to the dock, reverse and neutral goes out on the port engine (Thor!) and we launch forward.  Rafting up at the Visitor's Center it is!  The Captain troubleshoots as I continue to motor ahead, but no dice. As we near the Visitor's Center, there are 4 boats on the dock.  Our fellow boaters show up on deck to take lines and we are quickly rafted up to a friendly Trawler.  They don't teach you that at school! (Zendo will turn out to be our longest neighbors so far--they just retired 3 weeks ago!)  My Captain, Oh Captain has reverse fixed in less than 30 minutes--the clamp that holds the shift cable housing was loose, so the shift cable was stuck.  

Virginia/North Carolina border

6 boats rafted up at a 3-boat dock (Dismal Swamp Visitor's Center)

(Carib Moon, a Leopard catamaran is here.  Look's familiar.  Can't figure it out.) 

Day 2 @ Visitor's Center (free dock):  We're up early to watch 4 of the 6 boats head north for the Deep Creek lock.  (Everyone keeps saying, "Aren't you going the wrong way? {smile}"  A majority of the boats we are encountering are snow birds headed back up north--25% of them to Canada, for the summer.  "We like to be different.")  Blueberry smoothies for breakfast. We checked in at the Visitor's Center and get our "We did the Dismal 2015" sticker, followed by a 5 mile hike (I saw a bear's butt as he ran into the woods.  I swear.  Husband doesn't believe me!)  We headed back for lunch and while down below, 3 more boats show up so we scurried out to help.  A beautiful 1957 wooden ketch (Snow Goose) rafted up with us for 30 minutes, while they waited for the next lock.  Ariel & Diva Di--a PDQ 34 power cat also arrived.  We visited the museum, then successfully ran our wifi booster antenna up the back stay and get free wifi.  (Netflix!)

Dismal Swamp State Park boardwalk--labor of love by the employees

Snow Goose departing for the lock @ Dismal Visitor's Center

Nice SUP!

Day 3 Visitor's Center:  It was the Paddle for the Border this morning.  300 kayakers (including our boat neighbor on a SUP with a rowing set up) left for a 7 mile paddle to the Virginia border.  At 9:45, we got word the bridge would be opening so we scrambled to depart, with our wonderful dock neighbors, again helping us clear the dock.  We motored south another comfortable 20 miles.  North Carolina is BEAUTIFUL!  We love it here.  All short-term plans are exploring this area.

We clear a few more bridges, pass a lot of fishing boats and arrive in Elizabeth City, NC.  We tie up in front of a city park, along a "bulkhead" considered free parking for cruisers.  People strolling the park stop to say hello, including a couple that went to Clayton High School.  We have a good dinner for a reasonable price at Groupers, walk 3 miles round trip to the liquor store (the pirates now have more RUM), buy a new fender and used winch handle, and arrived back at the boat to find the high school kids taking prom pics.  A good day.  Another boat did a slow pass and we popped out to a monohull asking for a few line handlers.  We have a neighbor for the night.

US 17 Bridge @ MM 31.5 (65 ft)

South Mills bridge before lock

Norfolk bridge @ MM 47.5 not what we expected--watch the current

Elizabeth City bridge--smaller opening that originally anticipated (look close)

Stats:  Total time 3:46, 5.4 kts average, 20.2 miles.