The Street Art of Culebra

My favorite.  Right in town.  Walked right by without seeing it the first time!

Intriguing and a different style than the rest

Almost missed this also because it was PAST the Dinghy Dock Restaurant

Another favorite

Random.  Needs a touch up but very serene

Walked right by this several times until the sun caught it just right...

Left side of a music stand across from Zacos Tacos

Right side

On the walk to Melones Beach

Kept missing this because there were always cars parked here!  The sign for the grocery...

Apparently there are multiple "shadow man" around town

The Puerto Rican coqui (Frog)

I could never do Hector the Protector justice

A tile mural in front of a home

The BVI's are just SWELL!

St. John, USVI & part of the BVI's

As we cruise back through the Virgin Islands this season, our goal is to visit anchorages we skipped last time.  When we could find all around protection last year, we took it.  This season, I'm hoping to be more adventurous.  New friends are sharing their favorite spots and I'm keeping a list.  However, in passing, someone mentioned, "We got caught in an anchorage with a ground swell and had to move in the middle of the night."  How do we avoid that?!

So, I looked it up.  According to the Scott's "Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands" (the bible for this area), certain anchorages should be avoided when the "ground sea is running."  One example is Trunk Bay, St. John.  OK, what is it and where is that forecast?

In the same book in the Virgin Weather section, they refer to ground swells.  The same thing?  Confusing.  "During the winter months of November through April, any significant weather in the North Atlantic will product heavy swells along the entire north coast of the Virgins several days later.  These ground swells have little effect on vessels under sail, but can turn a normally tranquil anchorage into pounding surf.  Most anchorages exposed to the north are prone to this phenomenon--chose your anchorage accordingly."  Hmmmm.  More information please.

NOAA Swell forecast

On our visit to the BVI's last year, friends warned us off of Cane Garden Bay and the north side of St. John during a "North swell".  (Yep, the cruising guide confirms Cinnamon Bay is "untenable during northeast ground seas")!  This led us to subscribe to the NOAA Wave Period/Swell Direction Forecast (or read all the way to the end of the Chris Parker forecast).  North swell is also briefly discussed in Bruce Van Sant's weather section regarding the north coast of the Dominican Republic.

Further googling swell in the Virgin Island area revealed the terms "Atlantic swell" or references to "No swell".  (Isn't there is always an ocean swell ie. Statia?!  Apparently it means "No north swell").

All good wave research ultimately lands me on surfing websites.  Who LOVES big waves?  Surfers!  And their wave forecasting is impressive.  Apparently the north coast of Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands are popular surf spots in the winter because of THE NORTH SWELL!  Some info I found about "groundswell" (one word) from leading surfing meteorologist and Surfline.com forecaster Sean Collins about the difference between normal wind swell and groundswell (http://www.surfline.com/community/whoknows/whoknows.cfm?id=1144):

"Windswells are swells that are generated by local winds within a few hundred miles of the coast. As a result, the swell periods are short (four to 10 seconds between crests) and the waves tend to stack up on each other with very consistent sets. Also, a windswell's energy doesn't extend very deep -- maybe only 100 feet or so -- so it can only travel a few hundred miles before dissipating because most of the wave energy is concentrated closer to the ocean surface. 

Groundswells are swells that are usually generated by winds much farther away. These swells are created by strong winds over long distances -- we refer to this distance as the "fetch" -- and over longer periods of time. As a result, more energy is transferred into the water during the generation of the waves, which create longer swell periods. Waves with longer swell periods can travel great distances without losing the swell energy like windswells do. Furthermore, swell energy in groundswells can also extend down to around 1,000 feet deep. This allows greater interaction with the ocean floor when the groundswells move into shallow water. For example, this process of refraction will allow groundswells to wrap into a spot -- up to 180 degrees or more -- while windswells wrap very little if at all."  And this is why the ground seas running or north swell is so dangerous for sailors.

Van Sant, Passages South

Summary:  Take any groundswell/ground seas/north well SERIOUSLY.  It's not just "windy and rolly".  We sat out the last north swell tucked into Ensenada Honda, Culebra, Puerto Rico.  

My final definition:  Any significant low pressure system in the North Atlantic can create an ocean swell thousands of miles ahead of it.  The strong winds over long distances (fetch) creates longer period swells of 10-20 sec+ period.  These waves have more energy than a normal wind driven wave, extending down to 1000 ft deep.  This can make unprotected northern anchorages in the Virgins not just rolly but "untenable" (unable to be occupied--calculating the scope required is precarious and picturing what it is doing to your anchor should also keep you up all night).  It will produce strong rip currents ("no swimming" warning from the BVI during the last "Northerly"), and landing dinghies can be dangerous (ie. The Baths, Virgin Gorda).  The swell may last for 3-4 days.  And don't forget:  swell may arrive the 1-2 days before the forecast wind shift!  The waves travel ahead of the weather system!

NOAA Offshore Forecast

On a side note:  This relates back to a discussion about waves and swell in my previous weather blog (what-do-you-use-for-weather). Here is how a north swell can affect your forecast. Van Sant recommends always using the NOAA Offshore Report, but this season I've discovered the NOAA Coastal Water Report puts the "wind" wave and "swell" wave forecast next to each other, so it's easier to recognize a confused sea state.   If you compare the swell to the normal wave forecast, you can more easily predict "washing machine" seas.  Not comfortable, and slows us down.  Example:  EAST WINDS 10 TO 15 KNOTS. SEAS 4 TO 6 FEET WITH OCCASIONAL SEAS UP TO 8 FEET. DOMINANT PERIOD 10 SECONDS. NORTH SWELL 4 TO 5 FEET. 

NOAA Coastal Waters Forecast

References:

Passages South by Bruce Van Sant

Scott's Cruising Guide to the Virgin Islands

Nigel Calder's Cruising Handbook

surfline.com

NOAA marine forecasts

Running errands in Culebra

The bridge:  All directions involve the bridge.  You'll find it.  It's big.  "Go across the bridge..."  "Before the bridge..."  "Go under the bridge..."

Part of the fun of cruising is--every island is a new adventure.  We're always happy to explore.  But sometimes, just after we arrive, we're looking for a cheap meal, a grocery store and some internet.  If you like to do the "cruisers scavenger hunt" on your own, then this post is not for you!

They are a little secretive on Culebra about resources.

"In town.  Near the ferry terminal.  You can't miss it."  "Where's the ferry terminal & YES I CAN!"  Welcome to the Caribbean. 

On our boat, El Capitan (mi amor, mi esposa!) turns into a grumpy husband as soon as we hit shore.  The quicker I can get things done, the better.  So here we go... 

FaceBook Culebra Cruisers and Boaters:  Your best resource for up-to-date information is the FB Culebra Cruisers page.  Be sure to read the pinned post at the top for more of the basics. https://www.facebook.com/groups/culebracruisers/

Also, check out our Google Map Year 2 for some more details (I've started adding notes to each pin):  s/v Odin Year 2 (Culebra)

We asked our instructor during our "Learn to Cruise" course, "How do we know where the dinghy dock is?"  "{shrug} You just know.  Maybe it's in the guidebook.  Or you could follow other people."  When we started cruising, we'd normally sit and watch until we saw another cruiser head into town.  Now, we're braver, but it's not always obvious.  We don't want to offend the locals or be annoying tourists.  We've been told there are no private docks in Culebra, whatever that means.  These are the docks we've used & not been chased off.

This is from land, but look for the turquoise roof at the end of the dock.

Dinghy dock access #1:  If you're anchored in the main bay of Ensenada Honda, then The Town Dock will be to your right as you head towards the bridge.  (It is currently available for dinghies but the new power pedestals suggest this is geared towards the power boaters).  Park where there is a board to climb up on, preferably closer to shore.  Use a stern anchor.  It can be busy on weekends or holidays as bigger power boats come in, so take that into consideration.  Trash cans at the end of the dock.

"Meet you at The Dinghy Dock?"

Dinghy dock access #2:  Dinghy Dock Restaurant is across from the Town Dock, next to the bridge (left).  You really can't miss this one!  You can leave your dinghy here while you run into town but don't abuse the privilege.  We try to limit this dock to days we have time to stop for a drink or lunch (or of course, when meeting other cruisers!).  As is customary everywhere, leave a long painter.  It can get busy here!  They have fast internet and sell water for $0.25/gallon (park on the far left side so the hose can reach.  Pay cash at the bar).

The L-shaped (and brightly painted) secret dock

Dinghy dock access #3:  The "secret dinghy dock"or El Batey to the locals.  Use a stern anchor.  Good for Flamenco Beach, holidays when the Town Dock is full (New Years!), the hardware store (ferreteria) and Grocery #3.

Your landmark at the secret dinghy dock

Colmado Milka:  butcher & liquor

Grocery #1:  The favorite grocery on the island is Colmado Milka.  They have a good selection including a butcher & liquor.  It can be busy on weekends & holidays.  OK, pretty much all the time.  It wasn't obvious to us at first, but they do have a tiny dock (platform!) in the canal.  It is closest to the Dinghy Dock Restaurant:  Make a right out of the DDR and go straight (don't cross the bridge).  From the Town Dock, go left, across the bridge and then a quick right.

Superette Mayra:  slightly different selection

Grocery #2:  Superette Mayra is closed for siesta (12:30ish-3:30) & most holidays but has bigger aisles and a slightly different selection (coconut milk, grapefruit juice & Planter's cocktail peanuts!).  We try to swing through here on the way TO lunch.  Closest to the Town Dock:  Go right and in one block it's on your right.

Costa del Sol supermercado:  good prices

Grocery #3:  Costa del Sol is popular with campers heading to Flamenco Beach.  Good prices.  Good liquor selection (the tiny closet left of the refrigerated section).  Lots of junk food!  Mostly likely to be open on a holiday.  Shortest walk is from Dinghy Dock #3

Right from the secret dock.  Veer left at the Ferreteria/airport.  Watch up the hill on your left for the Heineken sign.

Veggie market!  Tues & Friday

Veggie Market:  Check the Culebra Cruisers FB page for up to date info, but the market was Tuesdays & Fridays for us--"mornings until whenever".  Welcome to the Caribbean.  This became a nice "cruiser meet-up" spot.  We frequently met friends here then stopped at PanDeli for cafe con leche.  Closest to the Town Dock & the same street as Zacos Tacos--towards the ferry terminal (see Google Maps link above).

The "laundry dinghy dock"

Laundry:  Upon arriving, Tammy on s/v Dos Libras said, "Hey, want to go do laundry?"  Sure!  We loaded everything into her dinghy and went searching for the "dilapidated dock over there".  We ran aground a few times while trying to consult Google Maps and our Spanish dictionary (what did we do before iPhones...).  Then we waded in, turned right and walked a short distance down the road to the laundromat.  No air conditioning.  No wifi.  But we still had fun (and I met new friends every time I went).  Good times.  We were the popular girls in town because WE KNEW WHERE THE LAUNDROMAT WAS :-)  NOTE:  Since I wrote this, we found ANOTHER secret dock near the laundry.  You'll have to find that one on your own.

La Surana Apartments & Laundromat

Zacos Tacos

Zacos Tacos:  Mandatory stop for cruisers.  Mandatory.  Chickens.  Iguanas.  Medalla on tap.  Good meet-up place.  I recommend their tacos...

"Head towards the ferry dock..." (hint: the same road as Zacos Tacos)

PanDeli:  Cheap breakfast, good wifi, locals line up for their pan de agua.  Excellent cafe con leche.

Library:  A library!  You don't see many of those in the Caribbean!  Internet, nice patio & great selection of books about Puerto Rico.

Internet:  I had luck at the ferry dock, Pandeli or Dinghy Dock Restaurant (the library's was out while I was there).

We are not in Missouri anymore...

Gas station:  This isn't hard to find but it's a fun photo.  You can dinghy over by taking the canal (next to grocery #1, so I tend to run next door while he fuels up).  Leave room for the bigger power boats that come in to the fuel hose up by the car pumps.  Move WAY off to the side (towards the haul out end) if you are going to both leave to do errands.

Ferry (la lancha):  The ferry is also a mystery.  There is no official website for the government run ferry (Correction:  There is.  Es en Espanol).  Beware of tourism websites with varying schedules.  You can't buy tickets online (but apparently you can buy tickets for the next day if you go down to the ticket counter).  What I know is there is a 6:30 am ferry from Culebra to Fajardo (be there by 5:30 am & purchase a round-trip ticket).  I arrange a rental car through Thrifty then call them for a pick-up at the ferry terminal (braver friends than I take the publicos.  Next time).  Stop at Golden Sweet Bakery for breakfast!  Be back by 2:00 pm for the 3:00 ferry.  I see crazy stories on the internet about lines for the ferry, so I avoid weekends & holidays (Thanksgiving through Three Kings weekend--Jan 6--is crazy).

And THAT is how you run errands in Culebra, mi amigos!

Reference:

Dos Libras gets propane http://www.thingswedidtoday.net/2017/01/getting-propane-in-st-thomas.html

Princess Amelia the Cat rides on a ferry

"I need a moment..." in the cockpit after the ferry ride

Amelia the Princess (& lazy-ass navigator who ALWAYS sleeps through her shift) is back to normal.  We had a scare the other day.  She got sick in the evening (isn't that always the way!) and we're on an island with no vet!  As an old lady pushing 20, constipation is normal.  I knew we were on day three without a poo.  Then she started to strain, pace and the famous drag-the-butt-on-everything--the couch, our bed, the salon table!   This had never happened before but I knew it was serious.  We stayed up in shifts overnight with her (she eventually exhausted herself).  We even attempted to give her an enema (you can learn how to do anything on ehow.com!)  

At 5:30 am, after 3 hours sleep, I decided to take her on the 6:30 am ferry to Fajardo.  (The Captain stayed behind with the boat in case I missed the last ferry back).  It was a 1 hr, 30 min ride and I was able to get two vet recommendations from my Women Who Sail FaceBook group including address/phone numbers/email before we docked!  El Capitan wanted me to grab a taxi, but I spotted the Thrifty rental car van & hopped in behind another couple.  "DO YOU HAVE ANY CARS?!"  They gave a last minute walk-in their normal econo rate with directions & I was off.  

Luckily, I knew the area pretty well from our time at the marina and arrived at Dr. Delgado's by 9:00 am. They had received my email & were expecting us.  He was AMAZING (and yes, spoke perfect English.  Many pet & people Dr's get their education in the US but you never know)!  In addition to our reason for coming, he officially diagnosed her arthritis (we'd been getting anti-inflammatory shots every 3 months after another emergency visit in Palm Beach, FL--the week before Thanksgiving and the week we were scheduled to leave for the Bahamas.  It was a hail mary pass by another wonderful vet to alleviate her obvious pain & it worked).  An x-ray showed two compressions & the beginning of spurs, so on top of continuing the shots, he recommended a supplement to help with the joints & a hairball/laxative.  

Mom's treat for her efforts.  Flan!  Yep, I took the ferry into Fajardo, rented a car & navigated.  Alone!

He asked if I had any errands I could do while he gave her an enema ("YES!!!") so I was off to breakfast (left without even having a cup of coffee or brushing my teeth!), grocery store and WalMart.  I returned after lunch & they were trying to coax her into her carrier so I could make the 3:00 ferry back to Culebra (the techs could not have been any gentler, although a little afraid of the hissing psycho she becomes at the vet, even though she only weighs 6 lbs & has no teeth!).  

Not what you want to see as you board a boat.

Upon arriving back at the boat, she wasn't speaking to either of us & didn't want to be touched.   (Feeling violated, I'm sure!). She went for a walk around the cockpit, then in for food & water, then curled up in the cubby behind her food bowl & went to sleep.  I was greeted the next morning by a loving & HUNGRY little girl.  I spoiled that by giving her a bath (Yes, we bath our cat.  No, it's not easy but I grew up in a house with show Persians so I'm a pro--fast & efficient but we did stop for pics...Yes, we used precious fresh water to bath a cat!). 

Saying "Thank you.  I feel better." to Mama the next morning.

"You've got 2 minutes and I'm outta here..."

She usually doesn't sit still for the towel

"Ohey.  What a mess she made!"

AGAIN:  I shared this before & I'll share it again.  Our cat is almost 20.  Friends in Brunswick also had an old cat & their vet demanded NO DRY FOOD which is also what Dr. Delgado demanded.  She was getting both but especially in older cats, it can cause dehydration.  NO DRY FOOD!

A special thank you to all of our cruiser friends who recommended a vet then messaged via FB all day to check on her progress.  I appreciated all your kind words!  It was a long day.

Headed to Culebra, Take 2

(I have no idea why the font size is randomly changing.  I can't fix it.  I'm posting it before I delete the whole dang thing on accident.)

What's that big, white, flappy thing...(yes, that's Culebra off in the distance!)

We see another weather window so we make attempt number two for Culebra.  It turns out to be a nice sail with much smoother water.  Sails can be seen in every direction and texts are flying!  "Where are you now?!"

Three weeks after we landed in Puerto Rico and after a week at a remote anchorage, we finally arrive in Ensanada Honda, Culebra!  (Which means snake in Spanish because of the shape of the island, I hope).  We motorsailed 1/3 of the way then motored the rest. We had a much better ride than our last attempt and got an EXCELLENT spot in 12 ft of water behind S/V Sail Pending.  S/V Dos Libras will be here tomorrow!  The anchorage is not as crowded as last time.  Life is good.  Zacos Tacos & a bushwhacker are in my future.

Mamacitas Restaurant off the canal

We quickly hop in the dinghy to find some dinner. We were only here two days last time, but there is no shortage of restaurants. Lacking motivation, we try a restaurant we haven't been to yet because it's closest. We chose something off the chalkboard and chat with our waitress, Maggie who just moved to the island a week ago. "What in the heck made you move here? We only know it existed because we're on a sailboat?!"

Ahhhhh, the sound of roosters at 5:00 am...while sleeping on our boat in the Caribbean still makes me laugh! They're a special breed here one the island that start well before sunrise and continue throughout the day. Drunk, inbred, roosters.

The theme of this stop is new friends and old friends.  I'm amazed how quickly we run into old friends and make new friends.  Apparently, the time of year and our location means we can sit still while FaceBook friends and friends of friends pass through.  

S/V Dos Libras is my muse every morning, because every #sunrise picture is better with a #sailboat in it!  #nofilter

We stop by Sail Pending, to meet a Women Who Sail FaceBook friend in person.  We tell them about plans for a dinghy drift.  They invite some more friends.  

What's a dinghy drift?  We had no idea.  Tammy on Dos Libras arrives and comes up with the idea.  Apparently, everyone dinghies out into the middle of the bay, ties together & chats until the group drifts towards shore (or in our case, the mangroves).  Then someone starts an outboard and pushes the group back out into the middle.  We'd never heard of it, but quickly helped spread the word.  At the last minute, everyone decides to bring snacks.  Huh?

Tammy of Dos Libras who came up with the idea for a dinghy drift

A rare photo of the crew of Odin courtesy of Dos Libras

There's even a video!
https://www.facebook.com/kristie.weiss/videos/10209767106727391/

White caps in the anchorage...sounds like a song lyric.

A rain shower breaks up the party and that will be the last smooth day in the anchorage.  No more dinghy drifts.  We'd planned on hanging out here for a month, because we've got nothing better to do, but then the Christmas winds arrive.  What are the Christmas winds?  Good question.  In December and January, from the Bahamas on down, high-pressure to the northeast can cause the easterly trade winds to become stronger for a period of several days to two weeks.  This results in sustained 20-30 kts winds which can create some big waves on open water in the process.

We aren't going anywhere!  Our little piece of heaven is actually considered a hurricane hole (although I have yet to find an official definition of what that entails) so it's not a bad place to hang out.  However, 20 kts of wind will make any large enough body of water choppy.  Many of our neighbors are lamenting about being stuck inside.  However, I coaxed El Capitan into the dinghy for a wet ride into town for lunch (apparently, I owed him a cheeseburger so it wasn't hard).

Despite our confidence in our Mantus anchor (and the fact we've been here for a week, which means our anchor should be BURIED) this casual conversation took place:

• Me:  At least we'll run aground before we drag into the mega-sportfish...
• Him:  Yeah, that's good.
• Yeah, we're not right in the head.

And then we went to bed.  This is the least fun part of cruising.  A rolly anchorage.  I'm not whining, just painting a picture:  I'm awoken by the wind howling through our 2 overhead hatches.  Do you close them to  get rid of the whistling and be hot? Or leave them open?  I closed one.  The waves are splashing against the side of the boat.  In our case, they also come between the hulls & if big enough, splash up against our bridge deck--under our bed.  Not constantly--just every few minutes, right as you are falling asleep.  AND THEN, every once in awhile, the boat lurches against it's chain and anchor which is basically like a cup of cold water in my face.  I get up.  I step out into the cockpit to confirm the winds have picked up from 20 to 25 (because that will help me sleep...) and a cursory glance towards the dinghy reveals it is a little farther from the mother ship than usual.  I turn on the flashlight.  The painter is missing and it's hanging by it's security line.   Now I'm wide awake.  EL CAPITAAAAAAAN!  (Because if I'm up, he should be up...).  We dig the painter out of the water & resecure.  He goes back to bed.  Amelia the Cat is awake, so I decide to hang out in the salon with my nocturnal baby--who promptly curls up & goes to sleep.  GRRRRRR.  That was rude!

My favorite Chris Parker-ism (marine meteorologist):  

"Least bad E-bound option".  

Lol. Sign me up!

The Captain does various projects around the boat & sometimes I don't even notice:
"Where did you go?"
"I was working on the {insert boat widget}."
"I didn't know it was broken."
"It's not. I fixed it."

And then there are no pictures to share!

Apparently, at some point, one of the supports for our trampoline broke off & it was repaired with safety wire. (I do not remember this at all!).

So yesterday, El Capitan repaired it with a bent bolt. Hmmmm, you can hardly tell! (Zoom in & you can see bolt threads!)

Companionway:  definition, front door

Taping off then sealant to fix a leak

Project #2:  Several rain showers roll through, reminding me that we had a minor leak at the companionway hatch, when it rained A LOT!  So out he goes with masking tape, a knife, acetone and some sealant.  Another chore done.  Nap time.

Stats:  Total time 3:40, avg speed 5.3 kts (0.5 kt into current), total mileage 17.0 nm.  1/3 motorsail, 2/3 2 engine-motor.