The march south

A view of Odin from Ft Matanzas

We've been meandering across the Florida line as hurricane season comes to a close, always within reach of our hurricane hole. Locals in St Augustine tell us they haven't had a hurricane in 36 years. (The city is actually battling the insurance companies to get the hurricane line moved farther south). However, as we departed the mooring field, our march south began in earnest to get in position for the earliest possible crossing to the Bahamas. We didn't put it a ton of miles each day, instead picking ideal spots to anchor for the night. Ready?  Here we go:

To Fort Matanzas anchorage (1 night)

We released the line off the mooring ball in St. Augustine by 9:00 am (note: do not exit the mooring field behind the motor yacht that ran aground!).  After we cleared the first bridge, our genoa was unfurled, and we motor sailed most of the day, with one engine at reduced power. The Captain let out a "WAS THAT A MANATEE?!"  Apparently, he's tired of dolphins. As we reached the bascule bridge before the Fort (we never pass a fort!), if was furled again.  As we made the turn for the anchorage, we had a 2 kt current on the nose, and with the engine at idle we came to a stop and started sliding backwards. When the anchor dropped, the new Mantus "set" quickly. No question it dug in. A quick lunch while The Captain starts fiddling with the anchor windlass. Two hours later, despite the current and tide, he's ready to launch the "launch" (that's what the park rangers call our dinghy. Ha ha).  We're supposed to land on the "beach" next to the Visitor's center to get on the ferry, but at high tide, it was a just a strip of sand, so we tied off to the "no fishing" sign and walked over to get on the ferry for the tour. This was another surprise--the park rangers were fabulous, the ferry ride was free, and they take quite a few people over every hour. You can climb up onto the roof or observation tower which was great for photos.

Fort Matanzas National Monument, built by the Spanish in 1740 to protect the inlet (back door to St. Augustine)

Afterwards, we walked a mile down the A1A to a greasy spoon on the water for nachos and beverages, just because. The overpass crosses the Matanzas inlet, unusable for us, and 1/2 mile from it's original location when the Fort was built. Apparently, Matanzas means "massacre" in Spanish, so we're spending the night at the "massacre."  

Found free wifi with our range extender ("beach guest"--yep, that's us!).  We had the anchorage to ourselves until another HUGE sailboat pulled in just before sunset.  It was another windy night, but even with the current and wind, it was a relatively calm anchorage.

Stats:  Total time 2:47, total mileage 12.6 nm, avg speed 4.5 motor sailed with genoa.

A residential section of the ICW, mostly mansions, then there's this!

To Daytona anchorage (1 night, didn't go ashore)

The anchor came up clean (sandy bottom) at the Fort by 9:00 am, just behind our neighbor.  The First Mate (apparently I am permanently assigned to the morning shift) had to backtrack a little to reenter the ICW around some shoaling and then "passed the fort to port."  Yeah, we crack ourselves up.  The trolling line was out briefly (but he doesn't have the right lure--"that one's for Mahi."). The Captain gets bored and starts replacing snaps on our sun shade--I guess it's nice to get something done while we're on the move!  We motored past Marineland and saw two dolphins, "They've escaped!  They'll be coming after you with flipper cuffs!" and another PDQ parked at their marina.   After that, it was remote for a couple hours before turning into residential area (peeking into the big mansion's back yards including pools with enclosures) all the way into Daytona.  We cleared 2 more bascule bridges then pulled off to anchor just off the ICW (another first) in the Halifax River. It took 2 attempts to get the anchor set (when we pull the anchor up tomorrow, we'll discover it's hard crushed shell.)  Hot dogs were grilled and chili was heated up then served with wine. Found another unlocked wifi signal!  The "bird boat" appears at sunset and anchored down from us. Then the cat puked on her blanket and she seemed mildly torqued when we took her blanket away.  I was awoken at 6:00 am by voices outside?!  It was several 8-man rowing sculls headed down river (no way I could listen to someone talk to me through a megaphone).

Chili dogs & wine, because he's out of beer!

Stats: Total time 6:59, total mileage 34.8 nm, avg speed 5.0, motored.

New Smyrna (rounded?) courtesy dock

To New Smyrna courtesy dock (1 night)

The anchor was up by 8:30 am with some crushed shell chunks still attached. As the day progressed, I saw rain on the horizon, and requested the Captain close the two salon hatches & zip up the First Mate's side. By then we could see the rain, and he zipped up the helmsman's side also. Then he dropped the second engine as I headed into a known area of shoaling, so we could make the bridge opening. "Um, perhaps we should wait."  Suddenly the bridge was in sight and we were a few minutes early.  I was at the helm while the Captain had the throttles. We began to question that we were at the correct bridge, and lined up with the correct span as the clock ticked past. Then suddenly, it started to open, and we giggled all the way though!  Phew!  Just then the rain stopped, so we scrambled to unzip the helmsman's windshield for docking and I ran up to set up lines and fenders.

After a few slow passes, we were tied up to the New Smyrna free dock on the first throw. (I was informed "the boat didn't want to go over there," and an engine quit somewhere in the middle). As soon as I started to open hatches, it started to rain again.  While I reversed all my work, The Captain found a restaurant close by and we were off. The food at Yellow Dog was excellent (Vegetarian wrap as a salad for me and a Crackerboy for him). We didn't have any luck finding the electronic car shuttle, so we went back for naps, and then grabbed backpacks for the 2-mile walk to the Publix grocery store (it would have been easy to throw the bicycles on the dock, but I was informed that it wasn't far enough!). A stop at Baskin Robbins on the way back for our efforts.

Good morning, New Smyrna

Stats:  Total time 2:40, total mileage 13.5 nm, avg speed 5.0 kts, motored. 

To Titusville mooring field (2 nights)

After spending the night on the courtesy dock (no one chased us off, but a fisherman and someone from Kirkwood, MO did stop by to say hello), and after giving up on trying the figure out the current, the Captain had the First Mate drive off the dock.  Since the dock was curved and the bow wanted to swing out, it wouldn't be a difficult departure, but I practiced using differential power to swing the bow out anyway. As per our mantra, no one swam and no boats were damaged. However, the best part was watching The Captain coil lines & stow fenders while I mozied down the ICW with a coffee in my hand. 

It's was pretty much a straight shot, 30 miles down the ICW to through Mosquito Lagoon (where we saw numerous dolphins and 6 manatees--our first confirmed sighting) along the Kennedy National Seashore to Titusville. We could see Kennedy Space center and the launch pads for 15 miles, before we turned down the Haulover Canal, which transferred us over to the Indian River, and passed through another bascule bridge. 

Upon arrival at the marina, we headed to the fuel dock with a 20 kt wind blowing us onto the dock. Unfortunately, we needed to move forward to the next dock to pump out, then one last departure to pick up a mooring ball.  Phew!  Another full day. Perhaps, we'll hang out for awhile.

We paid for 2 nights, but planned to stay for the weekend. We try to stay put on weekends.

US NASA Space Walk

We intended to go to Kennedy Space Center, but some fellow sailor's from the marina suggested the US NASA Space Walk Museum, so instead, we dinghied in early, stashed our laundry, went out for breakfast at a local diner and headed over. Tours are given by former NASA employees and a large part of the collection is donated by former employees or NASA itself (when the Smithsonian tried to put a banner in storage, NASA said, "Nope," and donated it here instead). The tidbit The Captain found most interesting:  the actual explosive bolts used in the investigation of Gus Grissom's capsule sinking (found 10 yrs ago.  He was exonerated after his death). I was in awe of the mock up of the crawler and the mission control room from Mercury/Apollo era complete with a still functioning sequencer.  Of course, you can't take me anywhere without an recipe idea:  

Norm Carlson's Launch beans & cornbread (I scaled down, soaked overnight and used the pressure cooker)

Put 6 (1) lbs. of dried great northern beans (soaked 8 hrs or overnight) in an 18-quart electric cooker.
Cut 10 (1.7 lbs) lbs. of smoked ham into cubes.
Add ham and ham bones to beans.
Add 1/2 (1 Tbsp) shaker of lemon pepper.
Add 3 (1/2) lbs. chopped onions.
Add (1) stalks chopped celery.
Add 1/4 tsp. liquid smoke.
Cover with water and cook for at least 8 hours (pressure cooker:  8 min high, natural release)

We found the missing mooring balls...

Disadvantage of mooring balls:  Today may not have been our wettest dinghy ride, but it was definitely the longest wet ride. Our current marina's mooring balls are under construction, so despite being ahead of the southbound snowbirds, we're pretty far out.  We had our rain jackets, but in a rookie mistake, I neglected to put the THREE loads of clean, dry laundry in trash bags. Despite sheltering them with my body (and later, the Captain's rain jacket), the dinghy was full of several inches of water by the time we reached the boat. Another sailboat was picking up the mooring next to us, and as we yelled, "Turn back!  Continue on!  Don't stop here!" and pointed at their tiny dinghy with a trolling motor, they smiled and waved. Suckers.  I quickly drug out the wet laundry and after several attempts to hang the sheets on the life lines (too f@?$ing windy!), the Captain graciously volunteered to run back in & put them in the dryer (with a trash bag!), mumbling something about "having another Fosters."  At least Amelia's blanket made it. She was asleep while it was still warm.  

Stats:  Total time 5:29, total mileage 28.5 nm, avg speed 5.2, motored (refueled. Avg 0.5 gal/hr since Fernandina)

A beautiful, Melbourne sun rise

To Melbourne Beach, FL anchorage (1 night, didn't go ashore)

It's the Captain's birthday. With some gentle nudging, he has elected to head out. One more shower would be nice, but not worth the wet dinghy ride. The wind didn't calm down over night, so it was a like sleeping on a bouncy castle. The beans & cornbread will hold us for the 2 days to Vero Beach where we can take the shuttle to the store. We're off the mooring ball by 8:40 am, behind a string of power yachts. Kennedy Space Center is still in sight, and after the first bascule bridge, he unfurls the genoa (while I go down to defrost the fridge--"why not?"). Motor sailing is nice (second to actual sailing) because 1) we feel like we are actually sailing!  2) the engine is at reduced power, ie. Less noise and less fuel 3) we sometimes gain speed (or at least counteract the current). 

"Genoa is UP!"

Average 6 kts, with 50% power on ONE engine, 15-20 kts on a starboard tack. 

Funny bridge story:  We call on the radio for a bridge opening and the bridge tender says, "I see two masts.  I'll wait for him."  We hadn't seen the guy behind us with his genoa up, so we slow down. He barrels down on us as the bridge opens and calls on the radio in broken English, "Clear of the bridge" as we enter. {Exchange confused looks.}  The Captain says, "No.  That's not how you do it."  As we clear, "Thank you. Odin monitoring 16," and then we hear the bridge-lowering horn as the second boat is underneath the bridge!  I don't know if the bridge tender could see him and wanted to give him a scare, or if he heard 2 "clears" and thought we were both through. The other boat made it, but I'd say it was closer than I would have liked!

Most modern bridges are 65 ft, however we've seen several bridges in FL that are listed as 65 but only show 62-63 on the board (which coincides with Active Captain reports). Not a problem for us, but those are your tax dollars at work. Someone was paid to build a 65 ft bridge and failed!

"Traffic off the port bow!"

Inspired by The  Captain's efficiency, I decided to defrost the fridge while underway.  He looked at me funny, then says, "Why not?"  I go below between shifts at the helm to chip ice and the engines will help cool it back down without draining the batteries.  (Sense of accomplishment!)

Melbourne is the location of our honeymoon. We flew the Turbo Arrow down with the kids and stayed at my new brother-in-law's house (romantic!). It was here I went for my first sailboat ride. I was terrified. I didn't know what heeling was but I was sure I would go for a swim. We've been together 20 years, his brother doesn't live here anymore, and we're anchored in the Indian River on our own boat.

I realized I've been leaving out the "stats" so I've gone back through Brunswick and corrected this, if you're interested. I've also been lagging on blog posts. I usually have random thoughts typed up, but I get behind on the editing/photo part. However, Facebook has lost some of my posts from the boat page, so I'll be staying more up to date on the blog. 

Stats:  Total time 6:07, total mileage 35.4, AVG SPEED 5.8! on the ICW, MOTOR-SAILED ALL DAY

To Vero Beach mooring field

Anchor is up (AND we're back to a mud bottom that requires hosing the chain off as it goes into the chain locker or it smells) by 8:20 am. It turns out to be a boring day of motoring. Sails will only unfurl for several minutes, and there isn't much scenery.  I did manage to reheat the requested leftover beans & cornbread, despite the Sunday powerboat traffic. 

A stranded pontoon boat flags us down to ask if we have a gas can. We do. (Ironic.  Sailboat handing off gas to a pontoon boat, because none of the powerboats on the ICW on a Sunday have one.). We circle back around as a smaller powerboat also stops to help by transferring the gas can over and keeping them from drifting onto the bank. The spigot is too short, so we pass over a funnel. In the middle of all this, a couple we met in Titusville waves from their sailboat as they pass. We chat on the radio about meeting up in Ft Pierce and exchange emails. Just like being a pilot--hours of boredom punctuated by a few minutes of excitement. 

Vero mooring field will be rafted three to a mooring ball by Thanksgiving. However, our call is answered with, "Your pick.  Not busy.  Look for one with a new penant."  Phew. "Call the ball, Maverick."  AND, we're done (scurry to get the boss's beer, open hatches and do some paperwork).  Dinner ("Why did we walk over when they have a dinghy dock?"). Showers. Caught the end of the Talladega race (6 laps to go took an hour!  "Nope that wasn't a great/white/checker.  Let's do it again!").  A good night's sleep in a sheltered spot. 

Stats:  Total time 5:37 (lost 15 min to pontoon boat), total mileage 29.8 nm, avg speed 5.3 kts, motored.

Historic St Augustine, FL (mooring field)

Iconic lion statue at the Bridge of Lions bridge (note sailboats in the background)

St. Augustine is the oldest-continuously occupied European-established city in the United States. (We'll later learn New Smyrna is older, but didn't make it initially). It was founded by the Spanish in 1565 (remaining in their hands for over 200 years) and would become a US Territory in 1822. If you haven't visited, you probably should.  The architecture is Spanish influenced, including the Flagler University (Tiffany did some of the interior decorating, including the wall of windows in the dining hall). There are some old churches and cemeteries to explore (one of the oldest homes is now Ripley's Believe it or Not).  It is also, supposedly, the sight of Ponce de Leon's fountain of youth (but there is an admission fee). 

We paid $120 to stay on the mooring ball for a for the week (this is a real bargain when you realize parking in town is $10/day!)

Greek Orthodox Shrine in Colonial Downtown

We took a few walks downtown, but the crowds and commercialism made it unpleasant.  However, one morning after stumbling into a particularly gaudy "Colonial Downtown," I discovered a Greek Orthodox Shrine, free admission. Huh. It was peaceful, absolutely breathtaking and very spiritual. I ended up having a long chat with a few of the employees in the gift shop, who pointed me to some of the restaurants and activities that they frequent. We also did the pilgrimage to Sailor's Exchange, a used boat part store. It's really surprising we haven't seen more of these considering the prices at West Marine vs the number of abandoned boats we've seen that could be salvaged.

You can't swing a cat without seeing Pirates in Florida!

During our stay, the dinghy quit holding air on one side. It went from needing to be pumped up once a week, to every few days, to not lasting through the day. I issued a public apology on Facebook, and after daily attention during our stay from Pappa, it suddenly started holding air again.

Something unique for cruisers in this area is a Cruiser's Shuttle that runs to many area stores (separate entity from the marina). This allowed me to run to the grocery store while the Captain went for a leisurely bike ride. When I got back with frozen pizza (!) and 1/2 & 1/2, I decided to run out to the boat in the dinghy instead of waiting. Suddenly, the dinghy wouldn't restart for the trip back to get the boss!  About this time, The Captain started calling, but our phones were acting up, so (another first) I tied the kayak to the mother ship, threw it off the front deck (Yeah! It landed right side up) and paddled in. He paddled out, got it started and came back to get me. And that's why it takes forever to run errands!

Of course, we couldn't resist a bike ride to West Marine.  They even gave The Captain new flip flops when we told them the one's he was wearing were super glued back together & only five months old.

Some kayak sunset photography

I got in a few sunset paddles in the pink-tinted, calm water. It's also a great way to check out the shoaling and other boats including the boat with two bird cages mounted on their rear arch & the Nautitech 47.  (A few days later, while anchored out, we heard a familiar sound.  The "bird boat" had anchored next to us again!)

Amelia puked on her blankie. That's kind of what it's for--mostly to absorb cat hair. But she chose a marina where laundry is $4!  Thanks, pukey. 

The dinghy docks are getting busier...

The great credit card/UPS rant (you can skip this paragraph if you are subject to high blood pressure): Someone tried to use our credit card, so we had to get new ones shipped overnight. It's amazing in the world of Amazon 2-day shipping that this is such a problem. You would also think marina's would be used to receiving packages for cruisers, but it's still a huge hassle. I received a text that the package was delivered, so I dinghied in to the marina gift shop ("We just sign and throw them on the floor...") and they hadn't seen the UPS man. I walked down to the dock master's office and asked if they had seen it or had any other ideas where it could be ("Nope."  These guys really weren't overly friendly or helpful in many respects). I walked back to the gift shop and she said, still nothing, so I started asking around at the other businesses in front of the marina. These people were all very helpful, including asking who signed for it and pointing me on to other businesses nearby.  Finally, I called the credit card company who told me it had "been delivered."  

"I'm standing here. It's not here."

"Well, it was delivered an hour or so ago.  Let me get you the tracking info."

"I have the tracking info.  I've been wandering around since I got the text."

She finally calls UPS, who again, tells me it's been delivered.  I start into the "Our credit cards were stolen. We're travelling.  I'm standing in the office. It's not here.  Call your driver and get more info" rant and she says, "what's the street address?"  After I tell her, she says, "that's not a valid address."  THEN WHERE DID YOU DELIVER IT TO?!  "It's not our fault if the address isn't correct."  I'll edit out the cursing, but she finally calls the St Augustine branch, who gets the driver on the phone, and suddenly they are being nice to me.  "Please hold. We're working on getting more info."  It turns out that instead of delivering it to the marina at 11 Avenida Menendez, he delivered it to Harry's Restaurant at 46 Avenida Menendez (and somebody signed for it!). ""Oh, I'll stay on the phone with you while you walk down.  Thank you for using UPS.  We're sorry for the inconvenience."  I'm pretty sure she almost hung up on me right before that!

During our last few days, there was a Northerly forecast with winds gusts to 28 and overcast (no solar ie. no movie marathons), so we hunkered down with our books and watched the white caps, the motion of the other boats in the wind, and people trying to dinghy in the waves (a few had their engines die, but got them restarted before we had to jump in our dinghy.  Later, I'd hear that a couple and their 2 dogs flipped and were assisted by some other cruisers).  We even had some "deck slap" on our catamaran, which is waves hitting the bottom of the bridge deck between the hulls--we usually only get that underway on rough water!

The Fort facing the inlet

Of course the problem with St Augustine is it's a tourist town. The crowds. Everywhere you turn they are trying to sell you something. The trolley, trams, horse drawn carriages, the school groups, the lines, and during our visit, a large motorcycle group!  We like St Augustine. Very historic city and lots of restaurants, everything we could need within biking distance but we were ready to move on...

This motorcycle rally was three blocks long, or maybe this is just a weekend in St. Augustine!

Fernandina Beach (Amelia Island), FL

I seem to have skipped over the week we spent at Fernandina mooring field. The highlight was probably Fort Clinch State Park.  I'll get to that.  Here's what I had written, for posterity sake.

We've officially entered Florida, the sunshine state. It's overcast.  We dinghied over to the marina in rain jackets to check in and have lunch. Because of the wind and current, we got soaked on the way back to the boat. After playing on the internet awhile (yeah!  Wirie wifi extender picks up the marina wifi!), we dug out the foul weather gear (that we haven't used since the Chesapeake!) for the ride back to take showers.

It's still overcast but we decide to walk to the grocery store--it's only 2.5 miles, with a stop at Burger King for good measure. We grab the basics for a beef stew (Captain will whip this up in the pressure cooker and it will feed us for 3 days).

Water conservation has kicked up a notch, since we are hoping to limit our marina visits from here on out. The laundry bucket has been pressed into service. I fill it with river water to pre-rinse the dirtier dishes ie. French press. We are just above half tank, so we'll take the water jerry cans in on the dinghy tomorrow and fill them at the dock (5 gal jerry can x 3 = 15 gallons. Main water tank holds 80 gallons/15 = 5 trips--best to not wait until the last minute).

With another day of overcast, Captain starts to get a little picky about electricity.  He decides our salon light, that hasn't been changed to LED is a no-go, so I drag out the battery powered lantern (I thought was a gag gift). Then he hobbles together a new salon fixture, out of a spare LED strip and switch. "Yes, we're impressed."

Canoe with outriggers, wheels & an enclosed cockpit (sunken sailboat in the background)

A view of the solar panel & water jug

There is a sunken sailboat in the mooring field which reminds me of the one in Charleston. The Captain still wants to buy a "for sale" sign ("showings at low tide")!  We've also seen this "maritime engineering marvel" a few times.  A canoe with outriggers, a bimini, a solar panel and later, a jug of water.  Oh, and of course, a dog.

Me cell phone is still dead, so day 2 is AT&T. I need to keep reminding myself that, from now on, errands are like scavenger hunts. 

AT&T dude:  "Charging port is corroded. We can upgrade you to a new phone?"  

Me:  I don't want a new phone.  

AT&T:  "You could take it to the Apple store?"  

Me:  Where's that?  

AT&T: "Jacksonville."  

Me:  We don't have a car.  

AT&T:  "You could take it to cell phone rescue?"  

Where's that?  

He points down the road.
We swing through Publix, the liquor store and scout out the propane place on the way back. DH drops me at the boat, picks up the propane bottle and heads back out. 

The Captain:  Do you refill propane bottles here?

Propane dude:  "No.  We wholesale, but you can take it to one of our customers." 

Captain:  Where's that?

Propane:  "Try back down the road at T-Ray restaurant."

Captain at T-Ray:  Can you refill a propane bottle?

T-Ray:  "After the lunch rush. Leave it out back and come back after 2:30."

We head back out to find the cell phone repair shop.  We end up halfway to the grocery store before we realize we went the wrong way. After backtracking, we end up in the part of town where "bike friendly" results in sidewalks that suddenly end in curbs or worse, stairs. Phone ResQ can fix it for $65 and tell me to come back tonight, so we head back out to find the propane bottle.  We retire to the boat for dinner & a little tv. They call to let me know my phone is done (Cumberland pics were saved!) so we dinghy back to dock.  Bike back over.  Bike back.  Dinghy back.  Less than an hour :-)  Not sure we could have done much better in a car.

Fishing pier at Fort Clinch

Fort Clinch State Park:  It was a relatively easy 2 mile bike ride out to the park ($2/each entry fee), then another two mile, beautiful, shady ride out to the fort.  We paid another $2/each to walk around the fort.  We had the place to ourselves, except for a few volunteers. On the bike ride back, we swung out to the fishing pier.  We walked to the end and after a wager, I got out my phone for an official measurement--1/2 mile long!  It was a great view of the inlet we would be leaving out of the next day.  A passerby told us he's seen submarines coming through the inlet for Kings Bay, complete with an aerial escort.

Fernandina Beach & break water

This wasn't a bad stay.  We like the $20/day mooring fields because they give us access to laundry, showers, water and the dinghy dock.  However, we quickly tire of the tourist towns.  The fridge is full, so we are ready to move on.

Our first overnight, offshore run

The only pics for this post (because it was dark!):  First mate at the helm

The Captain in his foul weather gear, shorts & flip flops.  He never changed.

We left Fernandina mooring field at 3:30 pm. I was feeling a little "eh". I'd had a small headache earlier, but tried to rehydrate. Neither one of us got an afternoon nap, but we'd slept late. We'd leisurely spent the day doing one last load of laundry, showered, brought bicycles back to the boat, and started securing things. I'd dug out layers (but didn't get them laid out). We had a late lunch/early dinner of The Captains signature stir fry with lots of ginger (no alcohol consumed!). The Captain assumed we'd be able to take naps inside in shifts. (He actually thought he could go up to our berth, while I hoped to lay in the salon.) We were aware that with our perfect 5-10 kts winds (add 5) and 2 ft seas (add 2) came with an almost new moon. As we motored out, I realized that didn't matter, because it looked like an overcast evening. 

But I digress. We depart the mooring field at 3:30 pm with the First Mate at the helm (PFD's & tethers on). We had scheduled our arrival into St Augustine for sunrise, 7:30 am. 65 miles, at 4 (kts instead of 5 since we are planning to sail the majority) with an additional 30 minutes added in that would allow us to return to Fernandina before sunset, if we have any problems. The biggest problem was the First Mate scrambling to do dishes, make a carafe of coffee and organize snacks before we depart (another big mistake). 

We were out the inlet, on the ocean, with the sails up, and on course as the sun set. A small rain shower is north of us, but we out run it. We didn't anticipate how cool it would get underway (how quickly we forget), so I turn over the helm and scramble for the long sleeve-t shirt and leggings I dug out. By the time I return to the cockpit, I'm a little queasy, but this usually subsides quickly. The breeze in the cockpit feels good, but when I turn around there is no horizon. (I'll never fully recover from this mistake.) 

We have running lights, similar to nav lights on an airplane.  Otherwise, everything is pitch black. We have an overhead cockpit light we turn on for jibes (turns) and each of us has a small flashlight on a lanyard around our neck. We can see larger ships on our chartplotter with AIS (receive only) but it's hard to gauge distance. A friend asked if we had a big spotlight?!  Yes, we do. We have a handheld that we can shine out on the water, or up onto our sails, to make us more visible, but mostly it's just dark. If a shrimp boat doesn't have his lights on or there is a floating container, we're screwed.  In fact, this is exactly why The Captain likes being farther from shore (than I like). Fewer things to hit (just like airports). 

By the time we reach Jacksonville, I began to waiver.  My stomach was upset but ginger candy was helping.  The Captain is also his normal amount of queasy, and I suggested bailing. However, the ship traffic at 11:00 pm going into Jacksonville is epic, so I agree to suck it up.  We settle into a routine of alternating 30 min on/30 min off cat naps with an alarm set and the autopilot on. We jibe a few times, to avoid ships and I finally start hailing them on the radio "Sailing vessel, southbound down the coast. We have you on AIS.  What's your course? (please don't hit that blip on your screen)". We continue to head offshore, with favorable winds at our back and hoping for one long jibe into St Augustine. However, with a huge tug heading our way, I requested an early turn, and the Captain dropped an engine to motor across their course (we didn't hail them on the radio because their boat name kept changing on the AIS?  Yeah, mess with tired people...)

At some point, I beg my husband for a little chit chat. "Talk to me, Goose."  He's got nothing. If you wrote a book, what would it be about?  If you could give your previous self advice after 6 months of living on a boat, what would it be?  Nothing, so I start singing "99 bottles of ginger beer on the wall..."  He let's this go on longer than I would have guessed, and when I lose my place, he says, "start over."  (?!?)  

We arrive at the inlet, just as the sun begins to rise. Our Navionics chartplotter and iPad Garmin Bluechart disagree, but we both agree the red/green approach looks correct. The genoa is easily furled from the cockpit, and the main was dropped, but the Captain has to go up on deck to fasten the sail ties in the dark. He comes back and takes over the helm--"Just like a really long ILS."  It turns out a few navigational bouys are out of position and/or unlit, but we had plenty of water underneath us. As we catch sight of the first mooring field, our initial destination, I advise the Captain that the bridge opens in 15 min. This is almost too much information for our tired minds, so I call the marina to see if there are mooring balls available on both sides of the bridge and (at this early hour) they confirm there are, "with a power boat off our dock scheduled through the bridge going the other way." I call the bridge and are advised to proceed to the 7:30 am opening. We can't believe our luck. Another call to the marina advises we're looking for "ball 53(?!), next to Calypso.  Be careful, it's shallow on the north, west and east side.  Enter on the south end," (apparently he meant drive through the middle).  Did you get all that Captain?  "Calypso."  We're tired and I start laughing. We're on the first try (ew, slimy!). After some high-fives and "yes, I am having a beer before I go to bed" and some frantic hatch opening and cat-feeding (wtf, Mom?) we crawl into bed. 

When I wake up at noon, I step out into the cockpit ("where are we?") and see Carina, a catamaran from dock 7 at Brunswick Landing Marina. Wait, what? It looks like a bomb went off on the boat. Boat hooks are laying on the foredeck, life vests are abandoned on the floor of the cockpit, binoculars laying up on deck. Layers of clothing strewn throughout the boat. Various, food/coffee cups/ginger beer bottles abandoned where they landed. 

We finally begin to clean up, the Captain securing the mainsail & cover & coiling lines, while I drop the dinghy in the water.  After checking in at the marina, we stumble into the nearest pub (A1A Ale House, which happens to be right across the street).  After I chatted up our waitress, the Captain looks at me and said, "It's Monday at 3:00 o'clock?  That's brand-new information."  Bloody Mary, please. 

There doesn't appear to be a train or paper mill here, but we do get to hear the draw bridge raise twice an hour. It's the idyllic Florida waterfront, with stucco and tile-roofed mansions & private docks lining the water way. 

We've been awestruck by the Naval (ie. submarine!) and Coast Guard presence on the East coast. From the Chesapeake, which appears to be one large military training ground, to the Norfolk (biggest naval port in the US) through the Dismal Swamp (Blackhawks on patrol and 3 military bases), each Coast Guard patrol boat has 4-6 people, sometimes with 2 gunners. We counted 6-$100,000 boats with government employees in polo shirts (4 per boat) departing Fernandina, on what looked like a training exercise. Two Homeland Security power boats just roared through the mooring field in St Augustine. We're not in Missouri, Toto.  

Future lessons: Coffee & tea was just adding acid to upset stomaches so next time we'll try 5-hour energy drinks for him, Starbucks Refreshers for me (max caffeine, minimum urinating), and a thermos of ginger tea.  Snacks will be ginger candy and saltines instead of trail mix, sandwiches or leftovers. My problem was mostly an upset stomach which was abated with ginger candy and distractions (99 bottles of beer on the wall) so hopefully a full moon/clear skies would help. EVERYTHING will be stowed in cockpit including layers, snacks, drinks, and chargers for electronics so there is no reason to go below. The boss will try taking medication 24 hours in advance so it will build up in his system (I keep meaning to try some on a day we're not sailing, but I don't like the side effects). Thanks to everyone who followed along and kept us company on Facebook & Twitter.

STATS:  (The chartplotter dumped the portion of the trip before midnight so these are guesstimates) Total time 16:00 hrs, total mileage 65+ nm, sailed with reefed main & partial genoa--motored 1:30. 

Dock lines away! (Cumberland Island, GA)

Goodbye Brunswick Landing Marina

We were a little rusty after almost 3 months at the dock. After some last minute laundry & settling up, we started our checklist. We fumbled through and finally pulled away from the dock, telling our neighbors, "We're out of here. See you in the islands!" It was a beautiful day, blue skies and a light breeze, a little warm. We passed Jekyll Island first--probably should have stopped here, but we were anxious to get some miles under the keels.  One of the things I enjoy about being on the water is channel 16 is our entertainment instead of tv. The birds were out fishing.  Several dolphins, made appearances. I didn't even mind the drone of the engines.  We also discovered we had a stowaway pet frog (he was given a wet paper towel and moved to the shade). 

Anchored out (Plum Orchard on the right)

We crossed St. Andrews Sound, which is basically like being out on the ocean. Luckily today was smooth.  We turned down Blackhill River and were immediately rewarded with a wild horse munching on marsh grass. Then the fun ICW game of gator-or-log. That was a gator, less than a mile from our destination. No kayaking for me!  We dropped our new Mantus anchor, then deployed the new riding sail. The current is still 8 ft here, but at times, slowed to nothing. Even with a light crosswind, the riding sail kept us pointed so there was a breeze down the hatches.  We are anchored next to Plum Orchard at Cumberland Island, GA. We were anxious to explore after reading, "Untamed" by Will Harlan (highly recommend), and every cruiser will tell you this is worth the stop.   

It was a peaceful night.  We're just drifted back and forth over our anchor instead of "swinging".  We're in the middle of nowhere (except for the glow of the sub base over there). The Captain got a good nights sleep. I was awoken once to "it's raining" but it was over before I could get all the hatches closed.

STATS:  Total time 5:04, total mileage, 25.5 nm, 5.0 kts avg, motored.

TheRetirementProject.blogspot.com's portable SSB & HF Weather Fax setup

I was up at 5:00 am, and for a second, couldn't remember where we were.  There was a break in the overcast so I could see the moon and stars when I stepped out into the cockpit. Without much interference nearby, I was able to listen to Chris Parker give Hurricane Joaquin updates on our new portable SSB radio (https://www.mwxc.com/  We subscribe to his email updates that come in the evening, but the morning update is nice). Thanks to our friends over at TheRetirementProject.blogspot.com, The Captain was also downloaded a few weather charts.  

Shrimp boats off the Cumberland Beach

Confident the boat is safely anchored, we set off in the dinghy for the Plum Orchard dock. We can see one of the outbuildings on shore from the boat. As we pull up to the dock, we saw 4 wild horses grazing on the lawn between the dock and the house. We snuck over to the map long enough to get the trail name, then we're off. I packed DEET bug spray and snacks, but forgot the water bottle.  The Captain is wearing flip flops because "it can't be that far."  An hour later, we can hear the waves crashing as we trudge through some mud, pop out at a sand dune and plunge back into the woods. Finally, we're on the beach. Joaquin has turned more northerly, but the Atlantic still looks unsettled.  One of the infamous shrimp boats (that threaten the sea turtles) is just offshore. We gobble down our snacks and head back into the forest with sand filled shoes. While discussing the varied growth of ethereal spanish moss, palm fronds with cedar and hardwood, we hear something coming through the woods. We stop and see 4 wild pigs BARGE across our path at a full-on charge. "Did you see the size of that first one?!"  I'm informed flip flops were not a good choice for a 2-hour hike.  No kidding.  Perhaps I should nag more.  "Really.  Is that what you're wearing?" 

Hardwood, spanish moss, palm frond forest...

I lost track of the number dolphins we saw at this anchorage. One momma and baby cruise through several times a day and another group of three came close to the dinghy while Craig was out working.  I may have even glimpsed a manatee. Birds nested in the marsh grass and we could see the eggs peeking up out of the nests.

We depart without touring the Plum cabin for Sea Camp anchorage, because it's supposed to be "better" and we want to get a spot before the weekend crowds arrive. We also need to leave during high tide because of shoaling down from our anchorage. We saw a depth of 9.5 ft on the way out, which would surely be above water during low tide!  It was an uneventful 2-hour motor past the sub base through Cumberland Sound, which turns out to be quite choppy.

STATS:  Total time 1:52, total mileage 9.2 nm, avg 4.9 kts.  Motored.

The first night at Sea Camp is so rolly from the unforecast NW winds, that we don't get to sleep until 11:30 pm, resulting in a late night TV marathon.  (We'll have to run the generator to charge the batteries, when the sun doesn't come out the next day).  I'm informed the new job #1 is doing something about the water sloshing in the water tank (right behind our berth)--either putting on baffles or sound proofing.

Short walk from Sea Camp dock to the Ice House Museum

The Captain almost didn't see the armadillo.  He didn't seem very interested in us either.

The next morning, we dinghy in to ranger station, which directs us down the trail to the Ice House Museum where more horses are grazing. We turn down the tunnel of oaks that leads from the dock to the Dungeness ruins.  As we pass through the front gates, there are 6 wild turkeys grazing.   The ruins are absolutely breathtaking and sad. The estate is enormous beyond comprehension. I can't imagine it in it's heyday (300 employees to keep it running!). We circle the grounds, then hike back down the main road towards the beach, stop for a snack, and the sun finally comes back out as we head home. 

Dungess Ruins on Cumberland Island

On our last day, we dinghy in with the bikes. It's 8 miles on a sandy, main road back to Plum Orchard for the house tour. On the return, we're delayed by horses (Cumberland traffic jam). We're surprised to see 4 dinghies at the dock & 5 more boats had arrived since we left. We've mostly had the island to ourselves.  The generator is drug out again, so we take advantage by microwaving lunch and making espresso. I've deployed the mosquito net (because we're too lazy to sew) and Amelia the Cat tried to walk through it.  She doesn't quite understand the concept.

Dinghy in with bicycles

Bike back to Plum Orchard

A Cumberland traffic jam

We woke up to water as smooth as glass and 68F. We're only leaving because forecast is for winds out of the NW again (and there is a managed boar hunt on the island today).

It's a short 7 mile hop across Cumberland inlet to Fernandina Beach mooring field (On Amelia Island--yep, where they have the big car show). It's misting, and next to a paper mill (with a train--looks vaguely familiar). We pick up the mooring on the second try. (The first boat hook is retrieved out of the water with the dinghy). We immediately jump in the dinghy for lunch, which turns out to be Pablos Mexican restaurant (with skinny margaritas). This town has everything we need--grocery store, coffee shop, ice cream shop & plenty of restaurants. We could stay here awhile, or until we blow our monthly budget on eating out!

STATS:  Total time 1:22, total mileage 6.8 nm, avg 4.9 kts.  Motored.