Crossing to the Bahamas

Road trip food with a sailing twist--sugar, carbs & energy drinks

We've been prepping for this for over 5 years. We purchased the boat almost a year ago. Lived aboard 8 months. Headed south from Brunswick 2 months ago. We've been in Lake Worth anchorage 2 weeks. Crossing was just under 18 hours (we'd planned 22 hours to the initial anchorage).  Other cruisers would ask our plans, and it was always "depends on how the crossing to the Bahamas goes..."  Well, we're here!

Chris Parker gives the fleet the "thumbs up"

Yes, I'm behind on the blog. We spent a total of 2 weeks anchored in N Lake Worth waiting for another weather window. Not much else to say--errands, dinying around, reprovisioning, West Marine, forwarded mail, shutting off cell phones. You've heard all about that, so I'll give you the highlights:  At the last minute, The Captain decided to whip up a little something for Thanksgiving. (He usually does the turkey and I do the sides and desserts.). He bought some turkey breasts that he cooked in the pressure cooker and sautéed Brussel sprouts. There was supposed to be mashed potatoes and dessert, but they were waived off, with sufficient turkey leftover for turkey/mayo wraps the next day. (I somehow got out of cooking, altogether!)  The Captain saw his first topless sunbather. I was out in the cockpit when a large motor yacht went by with an attractive woman on the top deck. He didn't believe me, so I turned over the binoculars. The captain came out and anchored single-handed (they would drag and reanchor at sunset). We also had another Women Who Sail meet-up at Old Port Cove marina.  Adele is the Captain on their steel-hulled schooner, Willful they rebuilt from a bare hull. We could have listened to her stories for days "When you run aground with a boat that heavy, you run aground!  Tow Boat won't be able to help!"  Our friends on Southernmost were waiting for a part, and then will be going straight through to the BVI's with a hired Captain onboard, so we had a farewell lunch at Duffy's.

Our last Lake Worth/US sunrise for awhile

THE BIG DAY:  I'm up early. I can't sleep. At 4:30 am, I realize I forgot to take off hatch covers. We swung around overnight and are facing south for the first time. I hear engines running before sunrise, so I began my checklist before The Captain gets up. Float plan, bilges clear, breakers on, PFD's and foul weather gear are in the cockpit, snack bag is packed. The boss is awake by 6, and says he can be ready by sunrise, so hatches are closed and I'm in the cockpit and ready before him! 

Hour 1:  Anchor was up with the sun at 6:30 am, and the First Mate is at the helm for the 4 mile motor down the ICW to the inlet (timed to be going out with the 2.5 kt current).  We dropped in behind a large catamaran (Global Hopper, Fountain Pajot Balia) that we'll follow all the way to the Little Bahama Banks (shallower water N of Grand Bahama Island). 

Rounding the corner at Palm Beach harbour, right before the inlet

Hour 2 (7:30):  The sails were raised as we cleared the inlet and we shut one engine down while reducing the second engine to 50%. We are motor sailing @ 6 kts.  A got in a few posts on Facebook before losing cell service (Kelly Nicole & Magnolia are out here somewhere!). Palm Beach is still visible behind us. 

The sails are UP!

Hour 3-7 (8:30):  We enter the Gulf Stream, which will try to carry us north of our course. We are still making good forward progress with the wind staying 60 degrees off our nose in a close reach--as high as we can point. The heading to Great Sand Ridge was 70 degrees and we were able to hold 100 degree heading to compensate for the Gulf--a bigger crab angle than we expected to be able hold. We saw 4 kts of current.  This will put us right on White Sand Ridge "intersection" to enter the banks. We're officially out of sight of land.

The Atlantic Ocean 

Hour 8: We had approximately an hour after exiting the Gulf Stream to readjust our course for any drift. We hadn't been carried too far north so we only had to make a small correction for White Sand Ridge. We had as good a ride as you can probably expect on the Atlantic Ocean. The forecast was originally benign with Chris Parker backing off a little on the morning email ("not moderating as much as expected").   We had SE winds 8-15 most of the way. The 1-2 ft waves were hitting us on the starboard bow, with the occasional crash over the bow, but none of the "bow burying" we dislike when the waves are too close together. The boat motion wasn't the most comfortable we've had, with the boat pitching fore and aft and side to side, but this decreased has we continued.

The turquoise waters of the Little Bahama Banks

Hour 9 (3:20 pm): As we approached the banks (halfway!), there appeared to be a few squalls ahead of us, so we reefed the main (one of our dutchman lines broke, but not a crisis we needed to deal with right then). The second engine was started and were now motor-sailing at 7 kts.

Hour 12:  The sun set at 6:00 pm:  The waters were mostly calm now, with 15 kts of wind. We had the lights of a few boats in sight, so we turned on our steaming light, which also lights up our sails and makes us very visible (we were warned about the small, local fishing boats with no lights).  We were taking 3 hr shifts, so we both got naps with the cat "Mama it's bed time & the house is still moving?!"

Sunset on the water 6:00 pm

Hour 17 (midnight:30):  As we arrived at our desired anchorage (Northwest side of Great Sale), it was PITCH BLACK. It was basically an IFR approach, with the hopes that everyone's AIS was still transmitting or they remembered to turn on their anchor light. (Our spotlight didn't help much). Creeping in at a slow speed, angling between 2 AIS targets (Kindred Spirit just passed us, so we're hoping they'd still be lit up) and looking for shallower water without ending up on the beach. The Captain laughed as he said,"How are supposed to tell if we're dragging?"  But after backing down on it, in an anchorage with good holding/mostly sand, I was happy. 

Over the next couple days, we heard from more experienced cruisers that called it a "lumpy passage with waves from every direction with the occasional big wave, which slowed their forward progress". Guess we didn't do too bad. 

Stats:  total time 17:36, average speed 6.2 kts, total mileage 114, motorsailed (main & genoa close reach, 8-13 kt SE east wind, one eng @ < 50% power until banks then 1 reef in main & 2 engines).

Sunrise at Great Sale Cay

Great Sale to Spanish Cay (customs):  When we woke up in the morning, I could see the island and our neighbors (and a few we didn't know about).  For the first time, I could see our anchor on the bottom!

Why hello Mr Mantus anchor!

The Captain planned to sleep in, but he's up at 6:30, saying he'll eat an apple on the go if I'm ready.  I wave to s/v Marsea as they motored out.  With plenty of room around us, I go up to the bow with The Captain at 7:30 am to watch our Mantus anchor come up.

It's mostly overcast, as we join the parade of boats around the north end of Great Sale Cay headed south down the protected channel between the mainland and out islands.

Clearing customs at Spanish Cay with s/v Zimbini

Our destination is Spanish Cay, a sportfish marina in it's offseason. A large motor yacht has pulled in ahead of us. We are direct us into a slip in front of the clubhouse. I can see beautiful fish & a small shark swimming under our boat. For $1.95/ft + $20 for electric, we cleared customs, bar, showers, laundry, wifi, shore power. We go out to help Zimbini (Island Spirit 40 catamaran) tie up, another boat we followed on the AIS.  A small thunderstorm rolled through which confirmed this wasn't a great spot to sit out the weekends forecast of gusty winds and 8-10 ft waves. 

Stats:  (approx) Total time 7:30, avg speed 6.0 kts, total mileage 41.0, motored

Sunrise from Donny's Dock in Green Turtle Cay/Black Sound

Spanish Cay to Green Turtle. After checking the weather, we decided to move to a more sheltered spot for the weekend. We topped up the water tanks and put up the cockpit extensions. 

Winds were light, so while motoring, The Captain raised the main sail to dry it out, then lowered and put the sail cover back on. We arrived at the narrow, shallow marked channel for Black Sound behind another monohull, who pulled over and let us go first (yeah, send the newbies in the catamaran first. We get that a lot!). As we near the dock, I look over and see Global Hopper! "We followed you over!"  We have a short chat until I have to turn around and throw lines. I throw the bow line to Papillion, and when I turn around to throw the stern line, it's the Captain from Marsea that I met on the bus in Vero, anchored next to in N Lake Worth, and waved to at Great Sale. The cruising world is getting smaller.  

Stats:  Total time 3:23, avg speed 5.1 kts, total mileage 17.1 nm, motored.

Other crossing blogs:

Magnolia:  sailboat departed from Ft Pierce:  http://a2baker.com/magnoliablog/?p=5655

Kindred Spirit:  trawler departed from St Lucie:  http://blog.kindred-spirit.net/2015/12/04/crossings-its-all-about-the-weather-haha/

Kelly Nicole:  http://lat43north.blogspot.com/2015/12/spanked-for-being-stupid.html

More from Kelly Nicole:  http://boathippies.tumblr.com/?og=1

Hanging out with Jack Nicklaus

North Lake Worth/N Palm Beach, FL Anchorage

Day 1 (Thurs):  Facebook post--"Here it is. Plan A--this is our last planned destination in the US. North Lake Worth anchorage in N Palm Beach. There's a crossing window tomorrow. We'll get ready today, get up early and recheck weather, then GO or go back to bed (Thanksgiving in the Bahamas or at the Thai restaurant across the bridge).  Be sure to click to see the full pic--I figured out the panoramic feature!"  

NOT a weather window for us

Day 2 (Fri):  Facebook post--"We're still in the anchorage, folks.  It was supposed to a good crossing day, but our concern was the deteriorating weather in the Bahamas on Sun. We would have been racing to a sheltered anchorage, before or after clearing customs. Turns out the winds are already shifting and there are storms along our intended route. Boo.  It looks like all our neighbors made the same decision."

The weather cycle this time of year tends to yield a weather window every 7 days, so we get comfy. I catch up on the blog. In the afternoon, we decide it's time for an emergency run to the Vet. Amelia the Cat's health has been deteriorating. She sleeps ALL day. The Captain wakes her up to eat & drink. Sometimes she appears disoriented and she is definitely having trouble getting around (and sometimes standing). She doesn't beg for treats anymore. Sometimes I'm afraid I'm hurting her when I pick her up. She had gone 24-hours without eating.  We don't want her to be in pain or starve. We expect the worst. Instead, the vet says, "She's lost some muscle mass, but her blood work is excellent for a cat her age. I can give her a steroid shot to make her more comfortable (arthritis) and that will also increase her appetite."  Phew!  It is supposed to take 24-hours for the full effect. We're cautiously optimistic. 

GF Philly Cheesesteak.  Woo hoo!

Day 3 (Sat):  We decide to run some errands, so we head to Bed, Bath & Beyond (refill SodaStream cartridge & bigger stovetop coffeepot).  Even a short walk requires waiting for a bridge!  We head to Jersey Mike's subs for lunch. They have gf sub rolls, so I have my first philly cheesesteak in years--maybe a decade? Our anchorage is also a popular water skiing/jet ski spot for the locals so that is the afternoon entertainment. 24 hours later the cat is improved. Still a little shaky, but up moving around, eating and begging for greenies.

Women Who Sail Meet-up at Old Port Cove restaurant.  Annette from Southernmost and Clive from Sitara

Day 4 (sun):  Rainy day chores including cleaning the fridge strainer (not his favorite job). Amelia is up, playing with a toy and going out into the cockpit to be brushed. The Captain has taken over the helicopter parent role, encouraging her to eat 3 meals a day and go out into the cockpit for awhile.  In the evening, we dinghy over to Old Port Cove Marina for a Women Who Sail meet-up (including husbands).  We called ahead, but still feel like we are sneaking into the mega-yacht marina. We head out early hoping to miss then rain and grab a table in the bar. 5 min earlier or later, we probably would have missed the rain shower. They don't have a dinghy dock, so we tie to the fuel dock and walk all the way across the large marina to the restaurant. (Turns out there is a dock behind the restaurant with a cleat). The Sitara crew are experienced cruisers and Southernmost is newer than us, so the conversation is lively.  We stay way longer than we planned and have to dinghy back in the dark.  It's supposed to be a chilly evening, so hatches are closed and a blanket is dug out. Cuddling :-)

"Dinghy dock?!"  Beach at the base of the bridge

Day 5 (Mon):  It was 61F when I woke up!  Flannel PJ's.  We head back in for another walk (Bed, Bath & Beyond exchange.  We have to wait for the bridge both ways.  "Were we in there 30 mins?  How come we can't do that in the boat.") Then to the West Marine flagship store, and even the First Mate does some damage (new shorts, extra flag since our is getting tattered and extra holding tank treatment).  They have excellent customer service, helping me download $20 worth of gift cards I'd forgot to bring (Note to self--do not let Captain set passwords).  It turns out the NY-style pizza ("pie") place next door has a gluten-free crust so we treat ourselves again, with a quick stop by Publix on the way back. White beans and cornbread in the pressure cooker for dinner.

Rumor is that's m/y Sea Bear, which belongs to the Golden Bear, Jack Nicklaus

Day 6 (Tues):  It's supposed to be windy today so The Captain does a few chores inside (pulls down the ceiling in storage to fix a leak discovered during yesterdays rainstorm) while I write up our hurricane plan for the insurance company (good times).  I also followed up with the Vet on the phone and he confirms a shot every 4-6 weeks is ideal, but he can give me some oral prednisone to take with us. We're optimistic about taking her on the trip as we hear from a fellow cruiser that their cat is sick and won't be going back to their boat with them.
Another catamaran snuggles up on our end of the anchorage along with 2 monohulls. Since the last weather window closed it's swollen from less than 30 to over 40 boats.  We're also surrounded by Canadians, perhaps because many of our fellow Americans have found a cozy marina that serves a turkey dinner.

Ft Pierce to Palm Beach, FL

Sunrise Ft Pierce, N Bridge Anchorage

Day 1:  I have my first big boat "bite".  The night before we were scheduled to leave Vero, I went up on the bow to scrub the growth off the bottom of the kayak (without shoes on--stupid). I'm usually pretty careful on the trampoline.  I am very aware of the gap between the boat and the frame, perfect for things like boat hooks, kindles and sunglasses to go overboard. However, while scrubbing, I stepped back and my leg went between the metal bar that holds the trampoline and the deck. I landed on my butt, leg stuck just below the knee. Luckily, The Captain was also up on the bow. I quickly said, "cut it!"  It hurt, like slam-the door-on-your-finger, hurt. The trampoline is secured by paracord. The Captain hesitated ("I don't know how to retie it that tight."). He tried pulling on my leg. CUT IT!  "Is it broken?"  No.  I was able to get up and walk around and put weight on it but was immediately sent to our berth so I could elevate it.  He momentarily chastised me for not having my knife in my pocket (stupid), then brought me an ice pack, ibuprofen, my kindle and an adult beverage.  I was actually starting to enjoy the Captain waiting on me--he made steak with mushroom & onions, served with mashed potatoes for dinner and kept my sippy cup full, but also liked to poke my bruise (to verify the extent of injury? Jerk.  He seemed disappointed it didn't turn more black).

DO NOT STEP HERE!

Hubby, can you make me a snack?

By morning, the whole right side of my calf had bruised up nicely and was sore and swollen.  I could still bend the knee and stand on it, but lifting it up hurt a little (no marching--strained muscle). I could still get up & down the steps. I was able to get in & out of the dinghy for a "last shower" in Vero before we departed ("Can you get a handicap sticker for a dinghy?").  Luckily, I can put my feet up while at the helm. Husband is starting to look for driftwood so he can whittle a peg leg "It will give you more credibility". Moral of the story:  Always wear shoes on a boat. Always have your knife in your pocket. Don't get complacent, especially when the boat is stopped, especially at the end of the day.  This also didn't bode well for the kayak. The Captain always grumbles about dropping it in the water, because it's a hassle to secure before outside runs. So after the "incident", when I suggested throwing it in the water, the answer was NO!

Does my calf look fat?  The Captain is planning a peg leg...

It was a short hop on the ICW from Vero to an the anchorage outside Crackerboy marina. Unfortunately, we've officially reached the land of S Florida and rude power-boaters. At one point, we were "waked" so hard Amelia the Cat's water spilled (and it's survived two outside passages).  I tend to avoid yelling at these idiots on the radio because, they probably aren't listening to the radio, & probably wouldn't hear me over the obnoxious loud, music.  I couldn't even give them a salute, because I was too busy holding on!

Overheard in the cockpit:  "Is that a crab pot in the middle of the channel?"

"No, it's a coconut." 

"Oh, yeah. I need a machete."

Where do you buy a machete?  Amazon? 

After clearing the Ft. Pierce North Bridge and anchoring on the other side, I was lounging in the cockpit when I heard screeching car brakes.  I looked up to see car past the gate that stops traffic for bridge openings. Then he reversed into gate. NOW, they can't open bridge or allow traffic across.  The Police showed up (and gave the offender a escort off the bridge!) and started directing traffic across. However, it was over an hour before the 3 circling sailboats, fighting the current, were allowed through. 

Stats:  Total time 2:15, avg speed 5.2 kts, total mileage 11.7 NM, motored

Day 2:  Why do all marinas have trains?  This one goes through every morning about 4:00 am.   We could also hear the paging system from the boatyard and got the occasional wake from the Sportfisher's heading for inlet. Then another cat anchored on top of us.  Ridiculous.  We must look silly from the ICW.  Three catamarans clustered together in a big anchorage.  (They stopped by on their way into the marina in their dinghy.  "Are we parked too close?  People get weird."  Yeah, because you anchor too close!)

"What's wrong with this bouy?"  (It's on the wrong side of the driveway.  Bahahahaha)  Trespassing on the vacant lot.

Day 3:  A friend recommended an anchorage around the corner that might be quieter over the weekend, with the added bonus of blocking us from the forecast 20 kt winds. There was supposed to be room for 6+ boats, but three were already anchored down the middle, so we snuggled our way in and dropped anchor. (Yep, we're THAT guy. Sorry catamaran friend, but you'll swing with us.)  So quiet. Peaceful. We didn't even want to start our portable generator to charge the batteries. Until our boat neighbor put up a noisy wind generator, then got out the circular saw.  Then their little, yippy dog started barking at us, so I barked back.  Game on.  Then The Captain referred to their dinghy as a pool toy. As the sun set, we heard a live band coming from the beach side, so we sat out on the trampoline after dark and listened to the music (no bugs, too cold). Very few of the houses had lights on, so it looks like a seasonal neighborhood.  We still had a nice breeze in the hatches for sleeping.

Stats:  (our shortest trip?). Total time 0:40, avg speed 4.1 kts, total mileage 2.75 NM, motored

Day 4: It was a little cooler. It's been unseasonably warm in Florida (85F instead of 80F with low's only around 75F). I know--WHAAAAAAHHH!  We had another lazy day of reading and playing on the internet. There is private marina here, but no public dinghy access. After lunch, we heard numerous motorcycles and live music nearby.  It turns out, the A1A runs by here, so we followed the guidebook (and a fellow cruiser) over to a boat ramp on an abandoned lot. From hear, it was a short walk to the beach, a park, and numerous bars. It was nice to get off the boat, stretch our legs, and not have to cook a meal. The forecast winds started kicking and by midnight it was gusting to 30. The protected cove meant the water was smooth (no bouncy castle and sloshing water tanks) but you could hear the wind HOWL through the open hatches. Not my best night sleep but the anchor held like a champ.  

Day 5:  The wind has shifted from the north to the east. We're moderately close to the docks with this wind direction. However, even more troubling, the catamaran next to us seems to have dropped back to us and appears closer (funny you never think you could be the one that's dragging). Time to go.  We motored 0.8 miles back out to the sheltered anchorage outside the condos.  Another first:  Anchorage number three and we're still in the same town!

Stats:  Total time 0:13, avg speed 3.7 kts, total mileage 0.8 NM (nope, this is the shortest trip!). 1301.1 mileage to date

We were hoping for an outside run down the coast (thus staying close to the inlet) but the forecast was for building winds and seas, so tomorrow we'll motor down the ICW a little farther.  Dang it.

Motorsailing out of Ft. Pierce, FL

Day 6:  After bopping from anchorage to anchorage, we depart on Monday morning by 7:30 am. It's an overcast, dreary day, but at least we're able to put up the genoa and motorsail.  This isn't a particularly scenic or protected section of the ICW, but at least the current is behind us. Several boats were lined up behind us most of the day.  We make the turn for Stuart, FL and "Manatee Pocket" a protected anchorage snuggled amongst numerous powerboat marinas and bars. It's a tricky entrance and shallow anchorage, so we're hopeful of finding a spot. We're wrong. No room at the inn. After a long circle around (and through) the anchorage, we decide to bail. It's only 11:30. We just spent a weekend anchored too close to other boats.  We agree to move on. There weren't a lot of options between here and Lake Worth, but after a long discussion, we pull into the next viable anchorage. Peck Lake is large, protected from the east wind and two other boats have already anchored. It's looks shallow on the chart, but we elect to trust our guidebook and reviews from other cruisers. We actually end up with more water than the Captain wanted--14 ft just means more chain he has to put out. ("What's 14 times 7?"  Yeow!")  Good stop, but we were too lazy to walk over to the beach.

Our "secret" anchorage.  Charts claim it's 2 ft.  Active Captain says 7 ft.  It's really 14 ft!  But don't tell anyone...

Anchor north of G19 & tower

We cobble together a gourmet dinner with what we have onboard--grilled chicken served over cheese polenta topped with sautéed mushrooms (he was going to make hot dogs!)

Stats:  Total time 5:05, avg speed 5.1 kts, total mileage 26.1 NM, motored sailed 3/4

Day 7:  Anchor is up by 7:30 am and we head south on the ICW again. Lake Worth/Palm Beach was our intended destination for crossing over. There is a possible weather window on Thursday. Winds would be out of the south, but the waves would be out of the east (from the weeks worth of strong easterly winds). The would put us bow first into forecast 1-2 ft waves. Our least comfortable rides have been on the Chesapeake and Ocracoke in those conditions. We decide to treat ourselves to a marina tonight. We need showers(!), to scrub the deck, equalize/top the batteries, laundry, defrost the fridge on shore power and a quick grocery run. We had 7 bridges today (it's even worse south of here), 3 on demand, 4 scheduled--2 requiring 6 kts to make the next opening (which, for us, is a good day)--without a 20 kt wind in our face. The bridges stress My Captain out, on top of the fact that the cat's health has been deteriorating this week.  (Me:  "We missed the opening?  I'm going to make us a snack").

As we clear the last bridge: 

First Mate:  "There's our marina."

Captain:  "Huh?"

First Mate:  "We're in the catamaran slip in front of the motor yacht with a side tie."

Captain:  "WHAT?"

Luckily, a very friendly and proficient dockmaster was there to greet us. (It turns out the wind blew us gently onto the dock, even after the SOP-one-engine-died.  "I have no idea how we're going to get out of here if the wind doesn't shift.")

Seriously.  The marina is RIGHT AFTER the bridge.

The first day my "boat bite" didn't need ibuprofen or to put my leg up. 

Disadvantage of a marina--We're starboard side to the dock with fenders up against the pilings. That's the same side of the boat as our berth. Squeak, squeak, squeak. And 2 ft tide makes a surprising jump to the bathroom in the morning. 

Uh, oh. It's a West Marine supercenter. Then a charter bus shows up to drop off a group for the motor yacht behind us.  (There were at least 4 Captain's--guys in white shirts with epaulets.  They backed out of the marina and down the channel, in the dark, into a strong current.  Hmmmmm).  (http://mariner3.com/events/film-locations/)

Parked in the entrance channel.  Gonna need to do a 180 to depart.

After getting up early for espresso, quick showers, and last minute web-surfing, we briefed our departure. We needed to spring off the dock (wood pilings, concrete fixed dock) and do a 180 in the entrance channel to exit the marina. The east wind that had been pinning us to the dock eased up. Textbook. "Some days, it actually looks like we know what we're doing."  It's short motor around the corner to North Lake Worth anchorage. I was a little anxious because this can be full and we don't have a lot of other options. However, we saw several possibilities and as we discuss our spot, another cruiser waves. Thanks. I needed that. 

Stats:  Total time 4:23, avg speed 4.4 kts, total mileage 19 NM, motored

Setting up my Iridium GO! @IridiumComm

Update Dec 2015:  Twitter Following & Private Messages, email blog to Blogger
(I am not an expert on the GO!. This was my attempt to combine eight different sources of info into one document, for my own reference. Might as well share it on the world wide web.  I will update as I learn more, so feel free to send corrections/additions.  Note to family & friends:  We only turn the Iridium on when we're on the ocean or other extended periods without wifi/cell service. It is not our primary source of communication.  For more info on the functionality available, check sv Totem's blog post:  http://www.sailingtotem.com/2016/02/iridium-go-with-predictwind-for-weather-and-more.html)

Iridium GO Cheat Sheet

The Iridium GO! is a satellite communicator that allows people "off the grid" (out of cell phone range ie. from hiking to sailing) to text and email, in addition to making phone calls.  Anyone who has ever used a sat phone knows they can be expensive and aren't easy to hold a conversation on.  The idea of being able to text or email makes the cost more reasonable (and easier for both ends to understand.).  It is also excellent for keeping family members informed of your location, and in a pinch, can send an SOS to the Coast Guard.  Cruisers use it for everything from Twitter to emailing back-and-forth to troubleshoot mechanical problems.  It is only for the tech-savvy and you still may need help from another cruiser or tech support.  (PredictWind recommends 1-3 days setup.)

Who you purchase it from, determines who your service provider/sim card is through and which plans are available.  You seldom see the GO! on sale, but the plans available vary.

Reference material (www.iridiumgo.com, then click on “Resources”):

User Manual (came in box.  I recommend also downloading an electronic copy)
Quick Start Guide:  GO! App  
(Also recommend ¹PredictWind, “How-to-Set-Up-Unit-Make-Voice-Calls-and-Send-SMS-Messages”)

User Guide: (iOS or Android) Iridium Mail & Web App

& ²Mail & Web app bulletin dated Sept 26, 2014.  Especially “strongly advise iOS users to disable various apps” list  (No longer available on Iridiumgo.com, superceded by firmware 1.4.1)

(Also recommend:  ¹PredictWind, “How to use the iPhone/iPad email & web app”)

Advanced Portal Quick Start Guide

Record the following for your records (back of User Manual):

Serial number: (APM) (under battery or “Information”)

SSID:  IRIDIUM-(under battery then name of your wifi network or “Information”)

IMEI:  (300325)-(under battery or “Information”)

Iridium Wifi password (range 100 ft):  (default NONE) Add @ GO app, "Advanced"

GO App/Administrator password:  (default guest/guest)  Changing causes Web&Mail error?
My Iridium phone number: 8816-###-##### (all Iridium phone numbers start with 8816)
(Text 8816########@msg.iridium.com)

Iridium email app registration:  (register at www.iridium.com/mailandweb)

My Iridium email:  (username)@myiridium.net

Service Provider (______________) phone #:__________________

Service Provider email address: ___________________________

SIM card number:  ####-###-###-####-#####

My service provider account number: ____________________________

My Service Plan:________________________________________

1.     User manual:  This will help you get the unit powered up, sim card installed, and download apps.  From there, you will mostly be using the GO app on your smartphone.

2.     Firmware update:  As of this writing, it should be 1.4.1, which supposedly has some helpful upgrades.  You will need “Quick Start Guide:  Iridium GO Advanced Portal” and a laptop with internet access to download the update (www.iridiumgo.com/update).  THEN connect laptop to GO via the Iridium’s wifi.  Open browser & go to 192.168.0.1 (Administrator log in is the same as GO App)

NOTE!:  Don’t follow the Quick Start/User Manual directions in order.  I was able to set up the Go app, but had trouble with the Mail app.  I was advised to do a factory reset of the Iridium, set iPad/iPhone to “airplane mode”, then turn wifi back on, bluetooth off. Log into Iridium wifi, THEN GO TO THE MAIL APP FIRST before changing any settings and see if “send/receive mail” is working (*see below).  “Changing a lot of settings causes problems…”  It turns out that, for me, changing the username/password to the GO app means I get a “Connection status:  ERROR” in the Web and Email app.

GO! App

3.  GO App:

•  Track: 2 kinds.  Set “Interval” (designated float plan family member), and “Quick GPS” to one-time to predefined group.  Works great.  CHARGED AS OUTGOING TEXT
• SOS/GOES:  This took me at least 3 tries to get set up.  Registration didn’t “take” or something.
• Text:  Set up relatively easy.  People text you by going to http://messaging.iridium.com/ or emailing 8816########@msg.iridium.com  (It costs us $0.10-0.35 to respond).  To text out, enter mobile number or email address
• Phone call:  To call out 00 or +[Country code] [phone number] (update contacts with country code) or use country code dropdown menu.  Iridium-to-Iridium:  dial “+” 8816 ### ##### (Change voicemail to “send a text”.  $1.25/minute to retrieve?)
• Twitter:  Set up by changing your Twitter account settings to your Iridium phone number, then logging onto the GO! app with your smartphone to complete verification. (https://support.twitter.com/articles/110250)  CHARGED AS OUTGOING TEXT!  You can post, but won't see your "feed."  (Hint:  To see your fellow sailors while underway, text/message FOLLOW @username to 40404 (your Iridium short code) & UNFOLLOW @username to stop.  https://support.twitter.com/articles/14020.  Also private message M @username?)
• (Link Twitter to Facebook):  Facebook functionality doesn’t currently work (for the last year!  They blame FB).  There is a work-around by posting to Twitter and forwarding to Facebook.  (I have a personal page and a “boat” page so I completed “Connect to FB profile”, then continue to “Connect to Facebook page”.)  https://support.twitter.com/articles/31113

4.  Mail and Web App: connection speed 2.4kbps.  Uses your data plan (except Twitter)

• See ²bulletin (Apple devices) and ³“Slow Internet/Using less Data”:  Opera “Data Savings”, disable iCloud, Dropbox, etc.  Turn off “Automatic downloads” for all apps, iTunes Match, “Find my iPhone”, disable PhotoStream, Skype, Facetime, “Location services”.  Email manual fetching only.
• Facebook:  NEW MARCH 2016!  While on regular wifi, open Settings, Social Media then enter FB login in.  See PredictWind for full setup:  https://support.predictwind.com/hc/en-us/articles/203715910-How-to-Use-the-iPhone-iPad-Email-Web-App?preview_as_role=999999.9
• Email button: Register for Iridium email:  iridium.com/webandemail (username is email address @myiridium.net) or “fetch” another (non-Iridium) email address ie. yahoo/gmail—be ready with POP or IMAP settings: 

• 

  Email settings
  
  

• *Mail & Web settings:  “Your Account, User Name, Password” (from registering)
• (Add non-Iridium email address:  Remote servers configuration, (click “+” to add another email address), “User name(@gmail.com), password—select Account Type to see if anything auto-populates—server address, etc {pop.gmail.com, 995, Use SSL ON.  Go to your email providers support page for settings}).
• (Non-Iridium recommended.  See Mail & Web User Guide:  Remote Fetch Settings, Remote fetch ENABLED, Fetch asynchronously ON, Fetch # per cycle (max # emails you want per transfer).  Then “Text when mail is available” ON {enter Iridium phone number})
• *To Receive:  “Mail”, then “Send/Receive Mail” (bottom left).  To compose: open “Mail”, “New mail” (bottom right), then “To Outbox” (top right).  (Connect to Iridium wifi), “Send/receive (bottom left)”

NOTE!:  There is no way to clear the email queue on the Iridium.  If you set up daily Chris Parker weather emails & don’t turn the Iridium on for a few months, they will all download at once (data plan limit!).  Iridium is “currently working on a solution”.  The only workaround is to create a new Iridium email account (SailMail is another possible solution.  You can log in on a laptop & clean out queue.)

BLOGGER:  Use email to post:  Go to settings, mobile & email.  Set up your unique email (username.secretword@blogger.com) & choose “publish” or “save as draft.”  To post:  Subject is post title, body of email is post with #end, attach photo (RESIZE!)  https://support.google.com/blogger/answer/154172?hl=en

• Web button:  Opera Mini  (Apple devices per bulletin).  BE CAREFUL.  Use mobile sites or “Iridium partner” apps. http://www.google.com/gwt/n gives text version of any website. To set up Apple device, go to iPhone "settings", "wifi", select Iridium network, then HTTP Proxy "Auto".  In app, select "Web" then follow instructions for config (says Safari?). PredictWind:  "If having trouble, close all background apps (settings, general, background refresh OFF), do not have multiple tabs open in browser, kill everything (double click home button)."
• Weather button: generic weather from NOAA GFS model.  Set location:  settings, weather, location

NOTE!:  My service provider says they calculate data used at invoicing. There is no way to "track" my data usage :-(

5.   Partner Products:  (set up to work with limited bandwidth)

https://www.iridium.com/products/types/Iridium-GO-1

• Weather: PredictWind app (requires laptop), GRIB Explorer Plus (Chris Parker recommend)(Additional weather options):  Saildocs.com (grib) compressed email  or Chris Parker email subscription (www.mwxc.com)
• Email:  SailMail app "AirMail"

Complaints.  Since there is no way to contact @IridiumComm support through their website, here are my gripes:

1. Why two separate apps?
2. Why can’t I have ONE manual?  I don’t care if I need to download it.  Just one.  (But preferably a printed manual, because we are OFF THE GRID, thus buying a SAT COMMUNICATOR!)
3. Why so many passwords/logins?
4. Take the Facebook functionality out of your ad.  It doesn’t work.
5. Why only portrait mode?  Mildly annoying, but I’m not the only one.

Links:

http://www.sailingtotem.com/2016/02/iridium-go-with-predictwind-for-weather-and-more.html

•       My Dropbox Iridium files (https://db.tt/lVlTb9qR):  Cheat sheet, Mail & Web Mobile App Bulletin (Sept 2014), Iridium documents (get the most current from their website)
•      My blog post:  “Slow internet and/or using less data”
• http://planesboatsandbicycles.blogspot.com/2015/09/slow-internet-andor-using-less-data.html
•      Iridium GO support:  Iridiumgo.com, then “resources”
•      Your service provider  (I purchased my GO! from Amazon, so I have BlueCosmo)
•       Predictwind has a great support page, even if you didn’t purchase through them: http://support.predictwind.com/hc/en-us/categories/200016475-Iridium-GO-
• Twitter support for SMS: https://support.twitter.com/articles/14020

Vero Beach, FL mooring field (17 days--yikes!)

Hey cruisers. Where was this pic taken?  Yep, the bus stop in front of Publix!

Vero Beach, FL is commonly known to cruisers as "Velcro", because some cruisers stop here and never leave. They have inexpensive mooring balls (soft-sided--yeah! $15/day), a free local bus, and everything you need on the "Magnificent Mile" (definitely not the Chicago version!)--Publix grocery store, Fresh Market grocery store, West Marine, two! liquor stores, bank, pet store, coffee shop. What have we been doing?  Most importantly, getting the cat her Bahamian paperwork, which was a whole separate blog post.  Playing with our Iridium satellite communicator before we go offshore--(which will be another whole blog post when I get it working).  Reprovisioning for the Bahamas, since beer and paper products are expensive there.  There is currently a competition to see who can buy more. (I'm hearing 14 cases and over 62 rolls from a to-remain-unnamed-boat. Dang it! Back to the store). 

Mulligan's on the beach

Here's a breakdown of our activities:

Bar, Amazon Prime shopping. Grocery store, West Marine, vet, grocery store, pet store, liquor store. Grocery store, ATM, vet. Guests, grocery store. Mall to a movie. Grocery store, bar. Bank, West Marine, vet, BAR!  Friends over for happy hour. Grocery store. Over to Kelly Nicole for happy hour. Another Amazon shipment, West Marine and more beer--thanks, P!  Two buses to Target, Home Depot, Bed Bath & Beyond--no more busses!  You get the gist. 

A pilot I used to fly with from my charter days brought his family to visit, including the grandkids. Since we were on a mooring, it took two trips in the dinghy to get everyone out to the boat.  They were our first "non-boatey" visitors.  I think the kids were most impressed with the dinghy ride and The Captain producing grape juice. They got some great pics and asked lots of great questions that I'll incorporate into future blogs. 

It was a full, double rainbow!

Someone told me they didn't pick up the mooring next to us because we had a generator on deck. Good to know. We'll leave it there.  And put some laundry out on the lifelines. Maybe get a little yippy dog (or the recording of a little yippy dog).  Yeah, move along. I hear it's better in the north mooring field anyway. 

We did get to spend some time with the crew of s/v Kelly Nicole (friends of friends and fellow Brunswick Landing Marina alumni). They were in the process of having some work done, so they kept us entertained with "You won't believe what happened next," and we helped consume moderate quantities of alcohol to ease their pain. (We probably shouldn't have abandoned them before they got the bill). We also toured the Piper Factory (1 Lear pilot, 1 mechanic/King Air pilot/former Malibu pilot, 2 engineers.  The Captain had a separate tour going in the back. They probably shouldn't have they let us in. Then again, sometimes the tour guide circled back around to hang out with us).  Trivia:  They produce 2.5 planes/week (compared to 16/day in the 70's & 80's). The planes are still mostly assembled by hand. 90% of the Seminoles and Cherokees go to flight schools. A majority of the Seneca's go to Brazil. There is 5000 ft of wiring in a Malibu/Meridian (I wish I could have taken a picture of the wiring harness panels!). They have approx 130,000 different parts in stock for current production airplanes. Just the Pratt engine on a Meridian is $450,000.  

Can you see my reflection in the hull of m/y Divemaster?  One of those anchors cost more than our boat!

We were going to leave for an anchorage. Then decided to stay for a Publix run. I was informed the Captain is out of beer. Maybe a West Marine run. And the liquor store again. Then might as well stay for the pump out boat on Tues. Now it's a Tropical Storm. "Velcroed"