Albemarle Loop/Columbia, NC Report

A review of our stop in Columbia, NC on the Albemarle Loop (written for the Women Who Sail forum):

We hopped from the Albemarle Plantation over the Columbia, NC.  This was a short hop across the Sound and with favoring winds, we were able to sail most of it.  We dropped the sails to enter the narrow mouth of the river but regretted it.  We could have sailed easily a little farther down river.  We called ahead to let them know we were coming, and they said "You can't miss the new docks."   According to Active Captain, the beige building was our landmark and that was correct.  They've installed several new slips with free water and shore power.  However, as a catamaran with an 18 ft beam, we chose to tie up to the remaining bulkhead (nearest the bridge).  There is no dock master here, but you can stop into the municipal office and check in.  When you step off, you are at the end of Main Street and we were immediately directed to Sandy's for lunch (free wifi, just ask for the password.  The town internet was spotty without our range extender, so I walked down to Sandy's a few evenings to update my Kindle and iPad).  There is also a hardware store, auto parts store, post office and several restaurants in town.  The Food Lion was an easy 0.8 up the road (Family General & Dollar Store are next door).  We had dinner at the Oyster Bar (open Thurs-Sun) and enjoyed a wine tasting and coffee at the winery (also free wifi, just ask for the password.  Nice upstairs to hang out).  Past the Visitor's Center, there's a boardwalk along the river.

We thought we had the place to ourselves until a pontoon boat (that gives rides on Friday) and 4 more boats showed up (Cypress Marina Cruising Reunion).  This was a nice stop.  We stayed the 3-day maximum.  We were very sheltered from winds.  There are showers and bathrooms at the dock.  (We also saw/heard rumors of mooring balls.  After a dinghy reconnaissance, one was on a tree and one was washing up on the boardwalk on the other side of the bridge.  I would assume the other two aren't being maintained.  I asked over the phone, and they didn't have any info.  We also wouldn't anchor in the river without some more local knowledge.  We saw a lot of logs just off the center of the channel).  Highly recommend.

Elizabeth City to Albemarle Plantation

The famous Elizabeth City rose bushes

Odin docked in front of the Elizabeth City park

Day 2 Elizabeth City:  We're hung around for another day.  This was supposed to be a mail stop, but we are now going to use the Albemarle Loop for that (free dock for 48-hours ).  We went to Muddy Coffee for breakfast, then walked 2 miles to the grocery store.  On the way out, we were repacking the groceries into our backpacks, when someone stopped and offered us a ride back to the marina.  We politely declined, saying "it's our exercise and we're going to stop for lunch."  The stranger said, "you should eat lunch at my restaurant!"  So we did--Monteo's was open for Sunday brunch.  The Captain had a salad, iced tea and a french dip.  I had shrimp & grits, a bloody mary and a mini creme brulee.  It was excellent.  Good thing we walked!

Monteo's Sunday brunch

I headed out for an afternoon paddle and my Captain walked to the hardware store (because we haven't seen a West Marine in over a week!).  Dinner is cold pasta salad with Country French vinaigrette, tuna, olives & peas.

Some of North Carolina's cypress knobs

On & off the boat was a little tricky.  Did I mention it was free?

Leg 9:   Elizabeth city to Albemarle Plantation marina (see separate Plantation report).  A warmer night on the boat--60F when I got up (couldn't see my breath--yeah!)  We departed at 7:30 am.  We're headed out for a few reasons:  1)  We are only allowed 48-hours on the free dock in Elizabeth City 2)  We need to do laundry  3)  The next marina is also free.  As a result, we didn't wait wait for favorable winds to sail.  As we left the Pasquotank River and entered the Albemarle Sound, we leave the Dismal Swamp route (and converge with the Virginia cut route).   We motor-sailed, then motored with less than 5 kts of wind.  It was a 35 mile hop (20 miles off the ICW) to arrive at the Albermarle Plantation (watch your depth). 

Broke free of the ICW and the main sail is UP!

The Dismal Swamp has been gorgeous.  The people are INCREDIBLY friendly.  We never saw less than 6.0 ft of water under the keel.  We saw a few logs on the side that were easily avoided.  The other boaters have been very nice (and I hate to say it, because they may take our sailor club card away, but the trawler crews have been especially nice to a couple of newbie sailors).  We would do this again.

We expected the usual "T-head" at the Plantation, but instead we're directed around to an extra-wide slip.  Wow!  What a treat.  It's our first full slip.  The harbor master is very friendly and a few other people nearby stop to grab a line.  We got a tour of the grounds on a golf cart and then arrived back at the boat for more visitors.  We finally get all settled and head for the Dockside Cafe.  It's the most reasonable wine collection I've seen in awhile, and we ended up sharing a bottle of chilled bottle of 120 Sauvignon Blanc.  Back at the boat, I confirmed we have free, strong wifi while the Captain disappeared below after a short deck cleaning (odd!)  Amelia reluctantly joined me until hubby pops out and says, "The air conditioning is working!"  SHUT UP!  It's our warmest day so far--76F.  We're just not acclimated yet (yes, just like Missouri.  It jumped from 50's to 80's overnight.  Not complaining!  Just sayin')

Stats:  Total time 6:46, 5.2 kts average, 35.5 miles

"You can't have those.  Those are for the Captain."  Um, OK.

I did several loads of laundry in their brand new washer & dryer (allowing me to packing away flannel sheets, blankets & sweatshirts and unpack t-shirts & shorts!)  We buy two more bottles of wine (another Sauvignon Blanc & a portugal Tawny Port) and go out for our second lunch in a row, exceeding our normal allowance.  We're a little giddy from all the free docks, water and electricity (afternoon espresso!)

A new breakfast recipe was inspired by the trawler, Diva Di--a scramble of onion, bell pepper, hash browns & spam (just because we're sailors).  (Normally I'd add eggs, but the Captain doesn't eat eggs and he said it didn't even need the spam.  Also a variation of a vegetable hash I keep meaning to try). For dinner, the captain also whips up his signature stir fry (with bagged vegetables & "tube" ginger but it was still wonderful!)

Captain cleans the exterior and does a few chores (apparently, regular marina visits will be required for this task that requires LOTS of water!)   For the first time, it's nicer outside so I move out into the cockpit to enjoy the breeze.  Apparently, it's the first sailboat race of the season today, so we watch the parade of golf carts to the marina and boats headed out into the bay.  My Captain tackles the water tank situation (trying to empty, change valves and refill our tanks).  The kayak was also pressed into service (even the Captain went out to explore!)

Albemarle Plantation/Albemarle Loop Report

The report I posted on the Women Who Sail forum (Facebook):

Albemarle Plantation Report (http://albemarleloop.com):  This was our first stop on the "Albemarle Loop," a new route created a month ago by a group here at the Plantation off the Yeopim River.  (OK, technically our second stop, but we were already going to Elizabeth City).  If you want to explore the sound (or just need a break from the ICW), this is a great option.  We're headed south and it was 35 miles from Elizabeth City (or 20 miles off the ICW).  It is one of 6 marinas that offer 48-hour free docks (2 marinas have fixed bridges--check your height).  This is a golfing and boating community that has opened their door to transients, especially those on the ICW.  We called ahead to let them know we were coming and were greeted very warmly by Michael, the harbor master.  They even had an extra wide slip available for our catamaran (and it was our first!)  A couple of residents also stopped to grab lines.  We received a golf cart tour of the amenities, then they left a loaner golf court at the end of the pier for us.  We had water, electricity (50-amp in our slip, but 30-amp is supposed to be available--bring your adaptor), wifi and free pump out.  Fuel is also available.  There is a Dockside Cafe just outside the marina that serves food and alcohol on Sunday & Monday (with an excellent wine collection) and a screened in porch.  There are also public bathrooms, showers & a washer/dryer available 24-hours a day in this building.  Other days you can walk/take a golf cart a short way to the Clubhouse for casual or formal dining.  They have a tennis courts, a pool, rent kayaks or canoes and can arrange a round of golf with clubs.

It's official.  We're told that we're the first loopers!  We lost track of the people that came by to say hello and to welcome us to their home marina.  Tuesday at 1:00 was the club sailboat race and it was fun to sit in the cockpit and watch everyone coming and going.  They also have an PGA event coming at the end of the month.

The only caution is to watch your depth.  We never saw less than 5 ft but it is a shallow entry (marked well with private buoys)--there are several sailboats based here.  There also isn't a lot of shopping nearby, but were told that a grocery store delivers and several people offered us rides into town.

If you aren't in a hurry, need a few days to do chores while at a dock, and like to sit back and enjoy the scenery with a good book, this is the place for you.  There are even adirondack chairs on the point overlooking the marina.