Thursday, March 30, 2017

Special Report: Hiking Ram's Head from Salt Pond Bay, St. John, USVI(Update)

The sign pointing you up the trail

(Update see link below to download free charts & GPS coordinates!)
We are on a National Park mooring at Salt Pond Bay, St. John, USVI.  It's time for another National Park Trail hike!  It's 1 mile and 273 ft up from Salt Pond beach to the top of Ram's Head with magnificent views along the way.

Come off the sandy beach and head south

You climb a small rise and suddenly have a view of a beautiful rocky beach

I could have photographed this all day


Listen to the tinkle the rocks make when the water recedes after a wave...

The Captain waiting up ahead for me to move along

It's a National Park so it's "Leave only footprints/bubbles" but that doesn't stop some from moving things around!  This wasn't me.  I'm not that patient.  Someone should probably spell out Odin and take a pic.  Please send it to me!

Continuing along the shoreline

And then we start up again

View towards the BVI side

A view down to the St. John side & the rocky beach we followed up

The only other sign on the trail.  I think we're here!

From atop Ram's Head looking west, a view of the south coast of St. John with St. Thomas in the far back left.

As we turn to head back, Norman's, BVI is on our right and our mooring field on the left.

Some of the Turkish Cap cactus had berries.  "Are they poisonous?"  "They don't taste poisonous."  {Sigh}  Google says they aren't.  They also aren't peyote or agave.  Before Google, we needed a set of encyclopedias or a library to settle our discussions!

The inside of the berry

Back along the rocky beach.  Mother Nature is a a magnificent artist

Heading back up off the rocky beach

Boat in sight!  I'm ready for a swim.
References:
Download free charts & GPS coordinates!  http://trailbandit.org/newsite/

Wednesday, March 29, 2017

Small Vessel Reporting System (SVRS)

West End/Soper's Hole, Tortola, BVI to Hansen Bay, St. John, USVI.

(Update 4/11/17:  Note on St. Martin & updating SVRS when you get a new passport)

There are a few more things to consider before departing the US besides just making sure your passport is up to date.  (However, these things can also be accomplished while in Puerto Rico or USVI, if you're willing to brave government bureaucracy in island time).  This blog is based on our experiences in the Virgin Islands.

We needed to clear customs after departing the BVI's and upon arriving in St John, USVI.  That would usually mean a stop in Cruz Bay.  However, before we left the US, we enrolled in the voluntary and free SVRS program.  This has allowed us to arrive at ports that aren't necessarily Ports of Entry ie. from the Dominican Republic to Puerto Real, Puerto Rico (POE is Mayaguez) and St. Croix to the south side of Vieques, Puerto Rico (duty-free US port to US port.  Customs office is on the north side of the island).  Of course, they can still require us to come into the office which, hopefully, is just a cab ride.  Each person must apply for an SVRS number.  Our boat is under the Captain's SVRS number and I add my SVRS number as a passenger.  Create float plan.  Activate float plan!    Easy peasy.

NOTE:  Friends on s/v Kailiani attempted to clear into Coral Bay, St. John, USVI from St. Martin and were told they needed to come into the office and present their St. Martin departure form.  It might be worth a phone call to the St. John customs office before you depart St. Martin.  We went from St. Kitts & Nevis to St. Croix so we don't have first-hand information on St. John from the south.

https://svrs.cbp.dhs.gov/Documents/SVRSFlyer.pdf

"As part of U.S. Customs & Border Protection comprehensive effort to improve security at our nation’s borders while enhancing legitimate travel, including private boaters, CBP implemented the Small Vessel Reporting System (SVRS). SVRS is a voluntary effort that will allow eligible, frequent pleasure boat operators and passengers, who are U.S. citizens, nationals or lawful permanent residents; ... . SVRS offers facilitated customs and immigration clearance for recreational low-risk boaters at time of arrival. This program will satisfy the boat operator’s legal requirement to report to a port-of-entry for face-to-face inspection in accordance with 8 CFR 235.1, but boaters must still phone in their arrival to satisfy 19 USC 1433."

"CBP reserves the right to board and inspect any small pleasure vessel and its occupants arriving from any foreign port or place and will conduct random inspections of SVRS participants."

Become a Participant: https://svrs.cbp.dhs.gov/Application/Default.aspx

Here's how to apply:
  • Go to the website above and read the requirements.
  • Fill out the online application
  • Schedule face-to-face interview (waived for Trusted Travelers)

We were both GOES (US Customs Trusted Traveler or Global Online Enrollment System) and didn't have to do the face-to-face interview for SVRS (but there is a fee & face-to-face interview for GOES).  Global is handy to have if you will be flying home during hurricane season.  It gets us in the TSA "Pre" line (enter Trusted Traveler # when booking your reservation).

NOTE:  A friend renewed his passport and on their next SVRS arrival, customs required him to report in person at the port of entry.  The Captain didn't experience this, but he's GOES.

If your boat is 30 feet or longer, don't forget that you are required to purchase a DTOPS decal for $27.50 every year. (We're hearing you just need the number). https://dtops.cbp.dhs.gov/main/#

This site works best with...

Float plan tips:
Once you're enrolled, you are required to go to their website and set up a password.  I also recommend setting up your vessel and getting acquainted early.  The website can be a pill!
  • If you're having problems, it's probably your browser.  I recommend a laptop to start--yes, it can be done on an Mac (Chrome or Firefox with cookies & pop-ups enabled. Internet Explorer--please tell you've given up on this outdated browser.  I don't recommend Safari because cookies are usually defaulted to off).  

NOTE:  Even on an iPad, I recommend having two browsers (see the blog, slow-internet-andor-using-less-data). It wasn't too long ago that all government websites required Internet Explorer, for example.
  • "Passengers" also need a SVRS number (there's no "crew" option)
  • Don't forget to ACTIVATE YOUR FLOAT PLAN 
  • If you're stuck, try scrolling down to the bottom of the screen for a "Next" button

An example of the display issues with the website...scroll down for more options

Step-by-Step Directions
I can usually fill out a form on a website without reading the directions, but I had to read "The Float Plan Guide" twice & it still didn't activate my first Float Plan, so here we go:

Log in with Captain's SVRS number.

(Add Vessel if you haven't already.  "My Vessel Registrations").  

SVRS home page

Click "My Float Plans"

Scrolling down reveals Navigation buttons

Scroll to the bottom, and select "New Float Plan" button

Registered Vessels page

The first page should be Registered Vessels.  Click "Select" next to your boat name then scroll down to bottom for "Next" button.

SVRS Passengers page

SVRS Passengers:  Type crew member/passenger SVRS number then "Add New SVRS Passenger" button.  Scroll down for "Next" button.

Non-SVRS Passengers page

Add non-SVRS passengers (they will have to visit a customs port of entry for an interview).  Scroll down for "Next" button.

Itinerary page

Itinerary probably says "No itinerary data entered" so click "Add/Update Itinerary" button.

A potential problem.  Pop-ups not displaying correctly

You now have a pop-up window.  This is an area of the website that gets problematic (see pic above). If the screen is blank check pop-up blocker is disabled & cookies enabled.  If that doesn't work, you may need to try a different browser.

Tips for this section:  
  • Just do starred or required field.  (It will help eliminate errors)
  • Country drop-down list may be confusing ie. BVI's are Virgin Islands, British.  Puerto Rico is under Virgin Islands (US Minor outlying islands won't let you select "US Arrival Location")
  • Don't stress the "address".  Type "location" instead ie. Hansen Bay
  • State/Province & Postal Code look required but may be greyed out (difficult to see) in USVI/PR
  • US Arrival Location:  In PR & USVI, you select "San Juan" (sector) then you will get the PR/USVI drop-down list (seriously, hours wasted on THAT float plan!)

Itinerary, Step 1 of 3

Step 1 of 3 Enter Departure info (see tips) & scroll down for "Next" button.

Itinerary, Step 1 of 3 example

Itinerary, Step 2 of 3

Step 2 of 3 Enter Destination info (see tips above for US Arrival Location) & scroll down for "Next" button.

Itinerary, Step 3 of 3

Step 3 of 3 Finish. Review info & scroll down to "Save to Float Plan" button.

Itinerary shows at top.

The new itinerary should show at the top of the pop-up screen.  
My pop-up screen remains open, so scroll down to "Close" (fingers crossed). 
"Are you sure you want to exit?"  
"OK"

Itinerary page with new itinerary

Back on Float Plan Itinerary page, you should see your new itinerary, so scroll down to "Next" button.

Are you kidding me?

(When I tried to enter a new float plan so I could take notes and screen shots, the website went wanky.  It happens.  Save, save, save and take a break.  Seriously.  Start this process a few days before you're scheduled arrival!  There have been more than a few frantic texts amongst cruiser friends while trying to file a Float Plan.)

Other Float Plan Data page

If you have a Cruising License Number, enter it here.  Scroll down & hit "Next" button


Now you should have "Float Plan Wizard Final Review"!

If everything looks correct then you must select "FINISH" button at the bottom.

Complete!  Almost...
This should bring you to the "Complete!  Float plan added/updated".  Take note of your float plan number in your boat log (or take a screen shot).


There will also be a link for "Activate this float plan now".
You can edit from here, but with the troubles I've had with the website, I recommend to GO AHEAD & ACTIVATE.  The website is not reliable and if you can't get back in, it was all for knot!  Customs is flexible with arrival times but won't be happy if you didn't activate.

Upon arrival, fly your "Q" flag (you never know who is watching) and call immediately.  Tell them you are SVRS.  (We've heard from fellow cruisers about issues if you don't have cell service & whether you can leave the boat to make the call?  I don't know the answer to that.  Have a plan.)

NOTE:  The screen shots above came from my iPad!  For the first time, I was able to get through the whole process using the Safari browser (Settings, Safari, Block Pop-ups OFF, Block Cookies ALWAYS ALLOW).  That's a first.

When you finish all that, get out there and go sailing!

Please share you're corrections, problems or tips with me below.


















Tuesday, March 28, 2017

SMS from xxxxxxxxxxxxx@msg.iridium.com

Click on the link below to see our arrival on the map (use arrows to zoom)

Lat+18deg18'29" Lon-64deg42'22" Alt+141ft GPS Sats seen: 08 2017-03-28 14:03UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=18.308060&lon=-64.706160 Sent via Iridium GO!

Sunday, March 26, 2017

Cheapskates on the Move: Make your own Fizzy Water

Sodastream's have become quite popular for good reason:  

  • You can make carbonated water from tap water!  
  • No more lugging home cans, bottles or 2-litres.  
  • It's eco-friendly because it eliminates single-use bottles or cans (reducing the plastics going into the trash and ocean).  
  • You never run out.  
  • No ingredients you can't pronounce.  
  • Cheaper in the long run.
I frequently refer to making our own club soda on the boat since that is a term people understand, but it is really carbonated water or seltzer.  Learn the difference here:  http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/10/29/seltzer-vs-club-soda_n_1434891.html.

Don't drink soda?  Here's what you can make with carbonated water:

  • Sodastream mixes:  You can make an individual glass & it can be adjusted for each individuals taste by adding more or less syrup ie. ginger ale, root beer, lemon lime,
  • The Captain drinks the carbonated water straight up
  • I like to add it to fruit juice like grape, cranberry or grapefruit (a good way to wean yourself off of soda--little fizzy & a little sweet, using less & less juice to save calories)
  • Homemade sodas like ginger ale, lime and cream soda (or Italian Soda if you're at Starbucks). There are tons more on the internet.  Think green tea or chai concentrates, simple syrups, fruit juice, Torani flavored syrups, or sassafrass concentrate.
  • Mixer:  Wine spritzer, see "lime" in recipes below for sweet & sour/margarita mix, to dilute hard liquors 
  • Tonic:  Sodastream mixer is good or homemade (http://imbibemagazine.com/Homemade-Tonic-Water-Recipe/)
An extra Sodastream CO2 cylinder costs $30 (one is included with your purchase) & can be exchanged for refills in the states for $15 (I used Bed Bath & Beyond 20% off coupons).  We had two at home so when one ran out, there wasn't a rush to exchange.  Once you leave the country, you won't be able to exchange.  You may be able to refill if you have all the pieces and can talk someone into it.  Friends on sv Sail Pending use dry ice: (https://sodamakerclub.com/diy-refills/)

We had a SodaStream but we bought a 4 lb C02 bottle and brought it to the boat (can't ship or take on airplanes) and then attached our Sodastream head when the smaller canisters were empty.  It lasted 18 months and we refilled it for $14 (labor waived) at Caribbean Inflatables in Red Hook, St. Thomas, USVI.  While some articles recommend using regular soda bottles, I still use the SodaStream brand water bottles (watch expiration date.  You don't want one of these to explode!)

Home brew supply stores are making it easier to find all the bits & pieces to make your own set up from scratch.  Here's a few articles:

Tips:  Water fizzes better when it's cold so we keep 2 bottles in the fridge or refill with water pitcher.  Add flavoring after fizzing or even better, in the glass.

Recipes
Ginger ale
2 tablespoons fresh ginger, minced
1 1/2 cups hot (not boiling) water
3/4 cup honey
sparkling water 

1. Combine all in a blender and process for 1 minute. Strain into a canning jar and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 10 days. 
2. To Make Ginger Ale: Pour 1/4 cup of the ginger mixture (more or less to taste) into a glass. 
3. Add sparkling water and ice cubes. Makes about 2 cups--enough for 8 servings of ginger ale. 

Lime soda
2 oz lime simple syrup, or to taste
6 oz club soda

Cream soda:  
2 oz vanilla syrup recipe:  Simmer 1 cup water & 1 cup sugar until sugar dissolves.  Allow to cool.  Add 1 tbsp vanilla extract & refrigerate
6 oz carbonated water
(Splash heavy whipping cream or Half & half, if desired)

Bonnie's Copycat Starbucks Refresher Energy drink (12 oz)
Ingredients on can:
Carbonated water 
Fruit Juice concentrate 25% (Raspberry/Pom, Orange/Melon, Strawberry Lemonade) 
Green Coffee extract 
Citric acid 
Stevia 
Ginseng

Instructions:
4 oz carbonated water 
4 oz green tea concentrate (1 1/2 c. water to 4 teabags or purchase powder) 
4 oz white grape juice & another fruit juice of your choice (also try frozen concentrate?) 
Simple syrup to taste

Limey
muddled lime
ice
6 oz carbonated water,
2 oz rum

Thursday, March 23, 2017

SMS from xxxxxxxxxxxxx@msg.iridium.com

Click the link below to see the map of our arrival in Jost Van Dyke, BVI:
Lat+18deg26'35" Lon-64deg45'4" Alt+142ft GPS Sats seen: 09 2017-03-23 14:25UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=18.443122&lon=-64.751128 Sent via Iridium GO!

SMS from xxxxxxxxxxx@msg.iridium.com

Click the link below to see the map of our location as we depart Soper's Hole, West End, BVI:
Lat+18deg23'15" Lon-64deg42'56" Alt+142ft GPS Sats seen: 11 2017-03-23 13:34UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=18.387512&lon=-64.715645 Sent via Iridium GO!

Wildlife of Brewer's Bay


The underwater camera allows pics from a new perspective!

St. Thomas, Part 2: (Yes, this is a long one.  We were here a long time!  Let's wrap this up so we can get moving...)

Our time at Brewer's Beach could be summed with TURTLES!  I could sit in the cockpit on any given day and count 6.  If I snorkel, I usually lose count at 10.  We even saw a humpback whale!  For The Captain, is was all about free water and the safari.  "Where should we go on the Safari today?"  We averaged a trip every other day, for a monthly total of $60--less than putting gas in a car.  We just added the $2-4 dollars to each errand.  Groceries--skip the cookie purchase, take the safari.  Laundry?  Go to The Washboard downtown and it will cost less than Crown Bay Marina if we take the Safari.

ALWAYS near our anchor chain.  Good job, buddy.

All the boats anchored along the beach LEFT!  So we repositioned. Closer to the dinghy dock/beach, better snorkeling, more sheltered, no rocks!  After a quick snorkel to verify our anchor set (much better), I left the pufferfish, a ray and a turtle on anchor watch (no lie. Can't make that stuff up!)

Panorama of Brewer's Beach
Thanks to cruiser happy hour aboard s/v SeaSparrow with Beagle Knot & Nauti Dog, we know the password at Bad Ass Coffee in Yacht Haven Grande is "mango" (and they were closed when we got there, so good thing we knew the password!).  Netflix me.

The very first photo with the new camera

More errands.  The Captain headed in to check on battery prices at the marina.  I braved the downtown cruise ship dock to buy an underwater camera ("No, I don't want the $300 one.  I want the $130 one!"  And cruise ship passengers, please put something on over your bathing suit before coming into town.  It's rude).  Upon returning & a quick lunch, we noticed our unattended neighbor was dragging (the wind is howling a steady 20-25 today.  Go Windy!).  We made a quick radio announcement then jumped in the dinghy.  Another boat knew how to get a hold of them on the phone (and confirmed there wasn't a key onboard).  I did a quick change to snorkel their anchor and confirmed deeper water but temporarily set with minimum scope.  As I returned to check our anchor, the owner's appeared, so I continued on and found the 4 resident turtles that live near our section of the beach.  I also found the ray, still on anchor watch--just missing the pic of him SITTING on the chain.   "I'm ON it, lady!"  Our resident pufferfish has eluded me for the last two days.  I'll find him!


Hello, DUDE!

Day #2 with the underwater camera!  After finding the 4 turtles that live close by, I went on a longer snorkel and lost count at 10 turtles and 10 rays (I was starting to think they were circling back but the turtles were really more interested in lunch--and the rays were more interested in getting away from me)!

The crap that can snag your anchor in Brewer's Bay (and I didn't make it all the way over to our last anchoring spot).  If you're chart plotter doesn't show the fiber optic cable--you should be looking for those tiny floating buoys that mark it coming off the beach

Pipe, but not the cable?

Wrapping your chain around this will be fun

Jury is still out on this one, but it was BIG.  8ftish

I'm winning at Scrabble and still had time for a sunset photo
Photos from around town. Our neighbors...


Public service announcement:  Our anchorage is dead calm, so I decided to work on treading water (sans snorkel gear).  I usually only last a few minutes with a flutter kick before I panic & grab a hold of something.  After some internet research on technique, I stayed in for an hour and for the first time ever, could float on my back!  You really can learn to do anything on the internet.  Sheldon Cooper would be proud.  I may be sore tomorrow...

Happy sunset!
Contemplating life & the sunrise with a cup of coffee and Amelia-Baby Bear

Laundry day!  Sun and breeze, do your magic...
I work up a sweat so it was followed by a jump in the water.  Yesterday, I completed 6 laps of the boat--200 yards (turns out I'm not a terrible swimmer when motivated.  We'll call that free-freestyle.  Kind of a backstroke doggie paddle).  Today was Noodling at Sea, or Staying Fit with Water Aerobics - Willie Haskins (basically, deep-water aerobics).  I did "cross country skiing" below the galley hatch while The Captain cooked Beef & Broccoli for lunch.  He even did dishes.  Win--win.  "Did you save any leftover rice?"  "Yeah, it's in the fridge."  "Got it."

One of the 7 tarpon...
(video) Life under our boat is all about the food chain.  The tiny fish live under out boat.  There must be 100's of thousands.  Small fish (6") arrive and eat the tiny fish.  Then the pelicans arrive.  This 4-foot tarpon is also clearly visible from deck (apparently what has been causing all the bigger splashes) and is currently eating the buffet under our boat.  Keep it down out there kids!  We're trying to take a nap!  THIS MORNING WE HAVE 7, yes SEVEN, large tarpon circling our boat!  And some medium fish have also arrived, that were quite territorial when I tried to clean the bottom of the boat yesterday--"Go away!  We're hiding under here!  Our spot!"  NOTE:  We also now have tiny fish in our toilet.  Well, that makes sense...

My elusive pufferfish is bashful, but always close to the boat.

Today, the water is so calm, we could see this turtle munching grass off the stern, so I waited for him to surface--RIGHT NEXT TO THE BOAT!  Love it here.  Never leaving..."TURTLE!"

Another cold front has reached us in the USVI.  (Dang it!  Don't get me wrong--I still jumped in for a swim yesterday). We knew when the winds switched SW it would get choppy because we're not protected from that direction, but it was already moving WNW as we went to bed.  I was awoken at 2:30 am by gusty winds (wind generator!  I should have made yogurt!), a pitching boat, waves slapping the bridge deck and the feel of our anchor chain jerking.  I can't sleep through that.  I go into the cockpit, expecting the winds have gone back west but they're NW and gusting.  A check of the chart plotter indicates we've either: stretched out our chain farther than we have since we've been here (The Captain), or the anchor has reset in the wind shift (First Mate).  Either way, we are closer to the swim beach but more importantly, our catamaran neighbor (who snuggled up while we were in town) is still over there.  The Captain is already back to sleep and Amelia the Princess also rolls over and goes back to sleep.  Goobers.  The good news is the unlocked guest network in the bay actually works at 2:30 am and I'm all caught up on the world.  We've settled down to simply a bouncy castle but I still can't sleep.

Our dolphins are back!  Steve from the Marine Science division confirmed they frequent the area.  It's been approximately 5 weeks since we last saw the two adults & two juveniles.   

Humpback whale sighting off the end of St. Thomas airport & Brewers Beach. Apparently took an hour long nap, then swam away!
There was speculation she may have actually had a calf!  Photos courtesy of the local paper

I dropped some sunglasses in the water.  Some nice, wrap-around cycling glasses that should have gone back to the RV.  We were headed into town.  They did a slow-motion skip down the back step and drifted on top of the water for a few seconds.  I could have jumped in.  I could have grabbed a boat hook but the wind swung us away, right then.  The Captain considered stripping and jumping in.  "Ahhhh, you can dive for them later".  Dang. 



I can barely scrape the bottom of our 3 ft keels, more or less dive the 8-10 ft of water we're anchored in.  I had hoped DH would retrieve them but his sinuses have been acting up.  The one afternoon I didn't feel like a swim, but in I go.  "Should we try a boat hook?"  No, it floats.  "What about the fishing line?"  You can try...  The current & wind kept moving me & the fishing line around.  I got konked on the head a few times by the dinghy--(this WAS his fault to begin with)!  I got the hook close a few times and was hoping to drag it across.  Instead, I finally got it on top of the sunglasses and contemplating my next move--the current gave the hook a jerk and they were off the bottom!  Quickly (but not too quickly), I reeled them in.  MUCH MORE SATISFYING than going to the mall for a new pair!  I'm pretty impressed with myself right now.  It's the little things in life, when you live on a boat.

Some of the best shell collecting since the Bahamas

"It's blowing a gale so let's get on a boat & go snorkeling!"  20 gust 30+.   We've never seen this tour boat before...2 failed attempts at anchoring & waved off of picking up the fiber optic mooring before they left. 

Note Cyril King airport 45 mph!
Our last evening in Brewer's will be happy hour on sv Encore.  Perfect end to a perfect anchorage.